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Giving Spencer Tracy: A Bold Alpine Trad Climb on Power Dome

Courtright, California United States
trad
alpine
single pitch
runout sections
multi-protection
historical
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Giving Spencer Tracy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A daring alpine trad route on Power Dome offering 140 feet of technical granite, protected by bolts and cams and steeped in climbing history. Ideal for those seeking a bold, focused ascent with alpine exposure and a taste of Sierra granite’s sharp, clean lines."

Giving Spencer Tracy: A Bold Alpine Trad Climb on Power Dome

Giving Spencer Tracy presents a compelling blend of alpine grit and traditional climbing finesse on California’s Power Dome, a granite monolith rising sharply above Courtright Reservoir. This single-pitch route delivers a concentrated burst of challenge over 140 feet, where every move demands attention and every hold invites trust. The route’s hallmark lies not only in its technical demands but also in the historic "Spencer Tracy" belay technique developed here, adding a layer of climbing lore to an already striking line.

Approaching the East Face of Power Dome, you’ll find yourself in a rugged landscape marked by open granite faces framed by the crisp mountain air and shimmering reservoir waters below. The climb starts on sustained, solid rock punctuated by eight bolts strategically placed to protect exposed sections, supplemented by cams up to 3 inches to secure more adventurous moves. As you ascend, the granite seems almost alive—its textured surfaces whispering tales of seasons past as you push upward toward the bolted anchor ledge.

The route’s rating of 5.10a R signals stiff technical requirements combined with runout sections that keep commitment high. Though just a single pitch, it is a gateway to the summit of Power Dome for those craving more, with the possibility to extend into two or three pitches—but be warned, the second pitch is notoriously runout and demands serious experience and confidence.

Power Dome’s granite demands precision and steady nerves; feet find delicate edges while hands lock into cracks and crimps that reward clean technique. Weather can turn swiftly here at over 10,000 feet elevation, so timing your climb in stable, dry conditions is crucial. Early mornings offer cooler temperatures and sharper holds, while afternoons can bring afternoon wind and shifting clouds.

For protection, layering your gear with cams as large as 3 inches is essential to supplement the fixed bolts—a balance of fixed and traditional gear that reflects the route’s hybrid nature. The bolted belay comes equipped with rap rings, making your rappel straightforward at the end of the climb.

This route sits in the Southern Sierra, not far from the small town of Courtright, California, and offers a pure alpine trad experience with the added weight of local climbing history. Whether you are steeped in Sierra climbing or seeking to sharpen your trad game against a backdrop of soaring alpine walls and shimmering reservoir views, Giving Spencer Tracy invites you to commit fully and climb instinctively.

Plan for a day of focused, purposeful movement paired with awe-inspiring scenery, and remember to carry two ropes for the descent. This climb is as much about respect for the mountain’s demands as it is about technical prowess—treat each step with care, and you’ll walk away with both a story and a skill sharpened by granite and altitude.

Climber Safety

The second and potential following pitches are dangerously runout—avoid extending beyond the first pitch unless you have solid experience and local beta. The granite can be sharp, and exposure is significant. Approach and descent require vigilance; bring two ropes for rappel and be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds and maintain cool rock temperatures.

Carry two ropes to safely rappel from the fixed rings at the belay ledge.

Bring cams up to 3 inches to protect runout sections not covered by bolts.

Double-check weather forecasts—the Sierra can shift rapidly above 10,000 feet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a R, the difficulty sits at the upper mid-range for experienced trad climbers. The R (runout) rating reflects sections where gear placements may be sparse, especially beyond the first pitch. The moves are technical and require solid footwork and confident crack technique. Climbers familiar with classic Sierra granite will find the grade consistent yet committed, with the presence of bolts making it slightly more approachable than a pure trad climb in the area.

Gear Requirements

Bolts and cams to 3 inches required, with a bolted anchor equipped with rap rings. Two ropes are necessary for descent.

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Tags

trad
alpine
single pitch
runout sections
multi-protection
historical