"A sharp 5.9 friction move kicks off this single-pitch sport climb on Schultz’s Ridge, offering an accessible yet engaging lead just steps from Yosemite Valley’s main hub. Ideal for those seeking to warm up or extend the day with nearby topropes."
Gidget Goes to Yosemite offers a concise yet challenging introduction to sport climbing on the northern side of Yosemite Valley. Just above the busy El Capitan Picnic Area, this line packs a measured dose of friction and precise footwork into a single 120-foot pitch. The climb begins with a technical 5.9 friction move or a sequence of two moves shortly after clipping the first bolt—this crux demands steady balance and sharp attention to your feet. Once past this, the terrain relaxes, allowing climbers to breathe easier as the route angles into an easy ramp that leads smoothly toward the top anchors.
Set on Schultz's Ridge, this route balances accessibility with just enough hold variety to keep a climber engaged. While the bolts provide the main safeguard, adding optional gear can bolster confidence for those who prefer a backup or a custom protection setup. Expect to navigate a series of small crags and slabby faces where the rock’s texture offers subtle but critical grip cues. The exposure is moderate, and the surroundings fill with the hum of Yosemite Valley life, reminding you of the park’s character without isolating you from its pulse.
Planning your ascent here means being mindful of rope length and how it affects your lowering. A standard 70-meter rope will leave the climber dangling 5 to 10 feet above the easy ramp on the rappel, necessitating extra care when descending or even some additional scrambling up the ramp if you decide to retreat. For those carrying a 60-meter rope, expect to gain a few more steps on that easy ramp, but no complete walk-off. This spot also serves as a convenient launchpad for top-roping nearby climbs once you’ve led this pitch.
Approach is straightforward, a short walk from the El Capitan Picnic Area, making it an ideal choice for climbers seeking a quick yet satisfying lead in one of Yosemite’s most storied venues. The route basks in morning sun but shifts to shade by afternoon, so timing your climb for early hours avoids heated rock and helps preserve grip, especially on those friction-dependent sections. Fall through spring offer the best conditions, as summer’s dry heat can make the rock slick and tiring.
Gear up with standard sport climbing equipment, but consider bringing a small rack if you want that added layer of safety. Footwear with a sensitive sole pays dividends here—precise edging and smearing are key to conquering the crux moves. Hydration and sunscreen are essentials, despite the relatively short length, and carrying a light windbreaker can add comfort during cooler seasons.
Whether you’re looking for a focused workout in Yosemite’s north side or scouting for a convenient anchor point to extend your day with topropes nearby, Gidget Goes to Yosemite bridges the gap. It invites the climber into a playful conversation with the rock, where every foothold counts and the view of the valley below is a steady companion. With luck, it will become a quick favorite for those drawn to the blend of friction finesse and accessible adventure typical of this iconic mountain setting.
Rappelling requires caution—your rope will likely leave you dangling above an easy ramp, so tying a stopper knot and carefully managing your lowering is essential. The rock around the bolts is solid but double-check placements if you add optional gear.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat on the friction sections.
Tie a knot at the end of your rope to prevent overruns on the rappel.
Consider adding optional gear to back up bolt protection for peace of mind.
Use nearby top-rope anchors to practice after leading this pitch.
Bolts protect the route with the option to place additional gear for extra security. A 70m rope is recommended but expect a slight hang on the rappel; 60m ropes may require some scrambling to reach the ground. Sensitive climbing shoes enhance grip on the friction-dependent crux.
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