"Giant Dihedral offers climbers a solid two-pitch trad climb featuring hand-sized crack jams and a clean slab approach. With dependable protection and stunning views from Devil’s Head, this route balances accessible difficulty with a rewarding experience."
Carving a striking line up the rugged walls of Radio Head, Giant Dihedral stands out as a classic two-pitch trad climb offering a rewarding blend of exposed crack climbing and straightforward slab moves. The route’s signature dihedral crack invites climbers to test fingers to fists in solid jams, rewarded by steady protection placements and a real sense of upward momentum. This climb commands respect, not just for its moderate 5.8 rating, but for the physicality required to manage the sustained hand jams and the mental focus needed to navigate a lengthy pitch that nearly maxes out a 60-meter rope.
The approach leads you into the wild fringes of Devil’s Head, where pine scents mingle with brisk mountain air. The granite here feels alive under your hands—cool, textured, and responsive as it challenges you to engage fully with each movement. Early on, the route flirts with slab terrain, where two bolts provide confident protection before the main crack opens. This slab is a delicate dance of balance and footwork, setting the tone for the sustained crack climbing beyond.
As you ascend, sunlight casts dynamic shadows across the granite, shifting with the day and heightening the sense of connection to the rock. The second pitch continues up the jugged dihedral, with opportunities to place solid pro throughout. Anchors sit firmly at 90 and 190 feet, allowing for safe transitions and controlled rappels back to the base. The climb’s exposure reveals wide views of the lush Colorado landscape, where the South Platte River threads through the valley below, daring you to push a little higher.
For those planning their day on Giant Dihedral, timing matters. Mid-morning to early afternoon offers the best light and temperature balance, as the wall’s easterly aspect delivers warming sun without the afternoon heat that can sap strength. Footwear with sticky rubber and durable edging is a must, as the slab requires precise placements and a sure step. A 60-meter rope is essential if you intend to link the two pitches in one smooth move, but the option to rappel in two pitches with a single rope provides practical flexibility.
Protection hinges mostly on finger- to fist-sized gear in the crack, supplemented by a couple of well-placed bolts that ease the initial slab. Anchors are modern and secure, thanks to recent clean-up efforts removing loose rock that once made the climb borderline hazardous. Still, vigilance is key: loose stone and occasional debris can lurk near the base, so a careful approach improves safety. Hydrate well, pack light, and leave room for the rewards of feeling the granite pulse beneath your hands and feet.
In the broader picture, Radio Head is a gem within Devil’s Head Wilderness, well known for its challenging climbs and dynamic terrain. Less crowded than nearby more famous crags, it offers a peaceful encounter with Colorado’s wild heart. Whether you’re a seasoned crack climber sharpening your technique or an adventurous party seeking a solid moderate route with character, Giant Dihedral delivers a climb that balances raw granite beauty with accessible, smart climbing. Prepare to meet the rock on its terms, find your rhythm, and enjoy every controlled, thrilling pull upward.
Despite recent cleaning, watch for residual loose rock near the base and on the slab section. Use caution stepping on potentially unstable holds and always double-check your anchor setups at both the 90 and 190-foot belays.
Tie in tightly if linking pitches on a 60m rope to avoid running out of rope.
Best climbed mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal sun exposure and temperature.
Check for loose debris at base before starting; recent clean-ups have improved rock stability.
Sticky rubber shoes with precise edging help on the slab section before the crack.
The climb includes two bolts on the initial slab section, with protection primarily in finger- to fist-sized cracks. Anchors are securely placed at 90 and 190 feet. A 60-meter rope is recommended if linking pitches, though rappelling in two pitches with a single rope is viable.
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