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Ghost Dancing at Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
hand crack
corridor climb
trad
single pitch
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ghost Dancing
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ghost Dancing is a succinct yet captivating finger crack climb tucked within Joshua Tree’s iconic corridor walls. Perfect for trad climbers refining crack techniques, it challenges you with a blend of liebacks, jams, and a final reach across a widening hand crack."

Ghost Dancing at Joshua Tree National Park

Ghost Dancing offers an engaging slice of Joshua Tree’s renowned trad climbing, condensed into a single pitch that packs a playful punch. The route begins with a prominent finger crack carving its way up the cool, shaded north side of a narrow corridor. This crack invites you to lock in with crisp finger jams and a confident lieback that tests both technique and patience. Resist the urge to veer off onto the opposite wall too soon—a tempting shortcut that would rob the climb of its character. Instead, commit to the finger crack’s full length, pulling through a challenging, almost desperate finish to a small, yet satisfying ledge.

From this ledge, the route demands a thoughtful traverse to the left, where you’ll turn to face the corridor’s breadth once again. The finale embraces a lean across the gap, following a widening hand crack that welcomes larger gear placements on its textured face. Protection varies from small to large cams, so bring a solid rack from 0 C3 to #4 C4 to secure your passage and anchor safely.

The setting itself feels calm but alive—a canyon etched with sun-warmed granite and the subtle sounds of desert winds threading through sparse vegetation. This corridor delivers more than just climbing moves; it offers a tactile interaction with the stone, where every jam and smearing footstep pushes upward not only on rock but on the urge for adventure. Ghost Dancing is moderate in grade but rich in opportunity, well suited for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills without overextending, and to savor a climb where each hold has a story of friction and opportunity.

For those planning a visit, the approach is accessible with minimal brush, easing the load before you reach the base of this striking crack. Conditions are best in the cooler mornings or late afternoons when the rock cools from the desert heat and offers solid friction. A reliable anchor beyond the hand crack finishes the climb, giving chance for a clean retreat or establishing a base for top-rope practice.

This route reflects Joshua Tree’s essence: straightforward yet demanding, an invitation to connect with the desert stone through steady movement and precise gear placement. Whether you’re brushing up on crack climbing or seeking a steady trad challenge on classic granite, Ghost Dancing delivers a compact but memorable experience. Come prepared with secure cams, solid shoes, and the focus required to navigate the corridor’s distinct features—this climb’s rhythm rewards attention and respect.

Climber Safety

Pay attention to rock quality on ledges and the final traverse; loose flakes can appear near the finishing hand crack. Keep gear placements solid and close to prevent long falls on the exposed traverse.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the desert’s midday heat.

Carry a full range of cams, especially small sizes for the finger cracks and larger for the hand crack anchor.

Shoes with sticky rubber improve foot jams and edging on slabby sections.

Stay fully engaged on the traverse section — maintaining balance here is key to a smooth finish.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels true to its standard, offering moderate challenges without surprises. The crux lies in the final moves on the finger crack and the committing traverse across the corridor, which can feel pumpy. It’s accessible but keeps your focus engaged throughout, more technical than purely physical.

Gear Requirements

Bring a comprehensive trad rack covering 0 C3 through #4 C4 cams to protect the finger to hand crack transitions securely. The anchor is set in a widening hand crack near the top, offering solid placements.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
corridor climb
trad
single pitch
desert climbing
Joshua Tree