"A compact trad climb at Castlewood Canyon that demands crack-stacking skill through a bulging fist jam crux. Ideal for climbers refining technique in a practical, accessible setting close to Denver."
Rising sharply from the rugged rock face of Castlewood Canyon State Park, Getting Rid of Your Rats presents an inviting challenge for trad climbers craving a short but intense crack experience. This 30-foot climb threads a water-worn crack system that channels rain and runoff, carving a distinct path through the stone. Located just to the right of Crack Sweat, this route is the fourth major crack east of the prow, standing out with its unique sequence of jams and bulges.
The first 10 feet of the climb demand focused technique and deliberate movements. The crux comes early, where a powerful fist jam must engage through a bulge that tests both strength and patience. This moment is not only a physical puzzle but also a mental checkpoint, requiring steady breathing and trust in the gear. Beyond the bulge, the rock eases, allowing climbers to settle into rhythm and enjoy the quiet clarity of the canyon’s exposed stone.
The approach to this line offers hikers a green-tinged trail that hums underfoot with dry leaves and pine needles, all framed by open skies and distant foothills. The air carries the subtle scent of juniper and dry earth, punctuated by the occasional call of native birds. This climb isn’t about high elevation or lengthy routes; instead, it concentrates its energy in a crisp, focused pitch where every jam feels earned.
Protection is straightforward but important. Bringing a rack up to a #2 cam will cover the placements well, with long slings recommended for setting a secure top anchor—essential for a confident top-rope or anchor-belay setup. The rock here is solid but demands attention to detail during gear placements, as the crack’s subtle flares and constrictions can challenge your protection options.
For climbers visiting Denver South, this climb offers a practical day trip that balances accessibility with a specific technical test. Whether you’re brushing up on crack technique or looking for a warm-up pitch before tackling nearby lines, Getting Rid of Your Rats rewards focus and precision. Prepare for sun exposure during midday and bring plenty of water, especially in warmer months. Footwear with sticky rubber and good edging ability will serve well on the varied rock texture.
Castlewood Canyon itself is a broad outdoor playground, where dry canyon walls meet open grasslands, and trails invite exploration beyond the cliff. This climb’s proximity to Coat of Arms Corner and The Rat Cracks means you can combine challenges throughout the day, making efficient use of the natural landscape. Take advantage of quieter weekday visits to avoid any crowding.
Planning your time to arrive in the morning or late afternoon offers cooler conditions and softer light that highlights the crack’s features. A quick but careful descent via the approach trail brings you back to basecamp energized and ready for your next move. Safety here depends on solid anchor building and keeping an eye on weather changes, as afternoon thunderstorms can sweep into the canyon with little notice.
In essence, Getting Rid of Your Rats is a compact, technically satisfying climb that blends the raw feel of traditional crack climbing with practical access and dependable protection. It’s an ideal objective for those drawn to the precision of hand jams and fist jams, wrapped in the sunlit warmth of Castlewood’s inviting cliffs.
Pay close attention to anchor placement; the crack widens in places making gear placements less straightforward. Also, be aware of the short approach trail’s rocky footing, which can be slippery when wet. Avoid climbing during wet or stormy conditions to reduce risk.
Start early to avoid the hottest sun and afternoon winds.
Check weather forecasts carefully; thunderstorms can develop quickly in the afternoon.
Wear sticky rubber shoes for secure jams and smear options on the rock face.
Carry enough water and a small first-aid kit for a safe, comfortable day.
Bring a full rack up to #2 cams, focusing on medium-sized placements; long slings are essential for building a reliable top anchor suitable for both trad lead and top-rope setups.
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