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Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) at Dairy Queen Wall

Twentynine Palms, California United States
crack climbing
trad
single pitch
desert
moderate difficulty
bolted anchor
stem moves
thin jams
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A single-pitch trad climb at Dairy Queen Wall offering inviting crack jams and low-angle slabs punctuated by a bold knob feature. Ideal for those seeking classic Joshua Tree style with manageable technical challenges and solid protection."

Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) at Dairy Queen Wall

Get Right or Get Left, commonly known as Addams Family, offers a refreshingly straightforward trad climb on the Left Side of Dairy Queen Wall within Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch route stretches roughly 100 feet through varied terrain that will keep you alert without overwhelming complexity. The climb begins with friendly, easy slabs leading you to a lone bolt positioned about 20 feet in. From here, the route moves past a distinctive grapefruit-sized knob marking the base of a steeper, more vertical headwall punctuated by a featured crack. The crack presents an inviting challenge: thin jams and stemmed moves that feel deliberate and absorbing rather than taxing.

Protection is comfortable, blending a rare bolt with traditional gear placements primarily suited for small to medium cams and wires—offering plenty of opportunities for stoppers that lock in solidly. A subtle route-finding detail comes into play about 20 feet shy of the anchors; while it's technically possible to finish straight up, a safer, smoother variation encourages a rightward traverse of about eight feet into a separate crack system that leads directly to the bolted rap anchors. This option balances efficiency and security, making for a confident finish.

The crux is well-defined but accessible, appealing to climbers who appreciate classic jam cracks without straining their limits. The climb’s texture and line recall some of the finer jams found deeper in the Dairy Queen Wall and mirror the style popular at the Shorter Wall in Rock Garden Valley. The rock here is typical Joshua Tree: coarse and reliable, demanding attentive foot placement and steady hands.

Approaching the Left Side of Dairy Queen Wall is straightforward and can be done via a short hike from the Lost Horse parking area, with the GPS coordinates providing a solid anchor point. The wall faces a predominantly southern exposure, catching warmth in the morning and shading by afternoon—ideal timing to avoid midday heat, especially in warmer months. The setting embraces the high desert’s austere beauty, with open skies and the occasional rustling whispers of desert scrub.

One virtue of Get Right or Get Left is its accessibility within Joshua Tree’s diverse climbing portfolio. At 5.9, it's a step into more technical, crack-focused trad climbing without demanding extreme endurance or gear complexity, making it a great choice for climbers refining crack skills or transitioning from sport to trad. However, the route’s simplicity masks subtleties in gear placements and hand jams that reward focus and steady execution.

Safety and preparation are central here: the bolt near the start acts as a reassuring clip-in point but don’t rely solely on it. Adequate gear including small and medium cams is essential to protect the various cracks securely. The descent is straightforward via rappel from the bolted anchors, though cautious rope handling on the slab and knob section is advised. Water, sunscreen, and stable footwear on the well-worn approach trail help ensure a smooth arrival and departure.

Overall, this climb makes for a compelling outing in Joshua Tree National Park, balancing the thrill of crack climbing with pragmatic details that keep you grounded and confident. Whether you’re a seasoned climber brushing up on jamming technique or someone seeking a manageable yet engaging trad experience, Get Right or Get Left demands respect and rewards attentiveness with memorable moves and satisfying gear placements under iconic desert skies.

Climber Safety

Although a bolt near the start provides protection, rely heavily on traditional gear placements throughout. The vertical section features tight placements where small wires and cams are crucial. The knob near the headwall requires cautious footwork to avoid slips, especially when descending the rappel—test anchor integrity before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heated slabs in midday sun.

Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams and wires for secure protection.

Opt for the rightward crack variation near the top for safer, smoother climbing.

Use well-gripped shoes to navigate the low-angle slab and knob efficiently.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.9, this climb sits comfortably at the upper end of moderate trad routes in Joshua Tree. The grade feels true to style, with a notable crux in the featured crack system that calls for precise footwork and efficient jamming. Compared to similar routes at Dairy Queen Wall and the Shorter Wall, this climb offers a balanced challenge without pushing into sustained 5.10 territory.

Gear Requirements

The route features a single half-inch bolt near the start, complemented by traditional protection placements primarily for cams sized from small to medium wires. The bolted anchor is equipped for rappelling with 3/8 inch bolts, making the rappel descent secure and straightforward.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad
single pitch
desert
moderate difficulty
bolted anchor
stem moves
thin jams