HomeClimbingGeritol Generation

Geritol Generation: A Compact Test of Trad Skill in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado USA
small gear
delicate lieback
loose blocks
single pitch
Boulder Canyon
exposed moves
5.9 trad
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Geritol Generation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Geritol Generation is a short but sharp trad climb in Boulder Canyon that challenges climbers with a delicate lieback start and a mid-pitch section teeming with unstable blocks. Ideal for those looking to refine their small-gear skills on technical, exposed rock."

Geritol Generation: A Compact Test of Trad Skill in Boulder Canyon

Geritol Generation in Boulder Canyon offers climbers a concise yet demanding pitch that blends technical crack climbing with careful route reading. Situated just right of the well-known Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello route, this 50-foot trad line tests your ability to manage small protection and negotiate tricky features. The climb begins below a narrow roof and tiny crack, requiring a delicate lieback that demands focused balance and subtle footwork. From here, you’ll transition onto an intermittent crack system, contending briefly with a small bush that frames the rock’s natural sculpting. Midway, the route features a collection of protruding blocks crowned with loose rock—these demand caution and selective movement, as although the upper holds have been judged solid, the lower portions look unstable and require avoidance where possible.

The route angles slightly left toward the anchors of Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, allowing you to finish at a familiar belay spot. Despite its short length, this climb demands a steady head and precision gear placements, mainly focused around smaller cams and nuts. It’s a perfect objective for those sharpening their crack climbing and trad management skills in an accessible Boulder locale. While rated 5.9 PG13, the rating carries a weight that matches its exposed lyingback moves and the unsettling middle section with loose blocks.

Approached from the Lower Animal World sector, Geritol Generation offers an intimate encounter amid one of Boulder’s popular climbing clusters, yet it feels distinct thanks to the mental edge required. Essential gear includes a rack favoring smaller protection; runners for delicate placements will boost confidence. Rock quality around the route offers solid holds overall, but the loose blocks at mid-pitch require a discerning eye, especially if you’re leading. Climbers should anticipate a straightforward approach along established trails and plan timing to avoid crowds, especially on sunny weekends.

This climb pairs well with others in the Animal World area for a half-day trad session, giving plenty of options for mixing styles and difficulties. For those eager to test their upper-end 5.9 skills and experience a rock feature slightly off the beaten path, Geritol Generation delivers a memorable brief encounter that calls for focus, finesse, and respect for the terrain.

Climber Safety

Watch closely for the loose rock perched on mid-pitch protrusions—while holds above have been verified solid, lower blocks can shift unexpectedly. Avoid pulling on suspicious features and carefully evaluate each placement before trusting it.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start just right of Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello at the tiny lieback crack below a small roof.

Be cautious on the mid-pitch protrusions; avoid loose blocks from below whenever possible.

Timing your climb for mornings can reduce heat exposure on the southwest-facing rock.

Double-check gear placements on the small cams—they are key to maintaining safety on this runout route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Though rated at 5.9 PG13, Geritol Generation feels like a solid test of your trad competence. The crux lies in the initial lieback and managing gear on smaller placements amid the blocks. The rating seems fair, possibly a touch stiff given the mental focus required, comparable to other mid-grade trad climbs in Boulder that emphasize commitment and subtle protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a consolidated trad rack with a strong focus on smaller cams and nuts for tight placements, plus runners to extend protection around tricky spots. There’s no fixed gear, so plan for conventional protection beyond the starter roof section.

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Tags

small gear
delicate lieback
loose blocks
single pitch
Boulder Canyon
exposed moves
5.9 trad