"Explore a precise, one-pitch trad climb on the west face of Scout Rock, where technical finger cracks and blunt aretes shape an engaging challenge. This route demands careful gear placements and steady movement within the rugged St. Vrain Canyon."
General Cluster's Last Stance offers climbers a grounded, thoughtful trad experience on the rugged west face of Scout Rock, tucked within Colorado’s St. Vrain Canyons. The route begins in a narrow slot that gently opens into Funhouse Chimney, inviting you upward along a path that blends technical finger cracks with sharp arete moves. The initial chimney section steers you to a lone bolt fixed on the right face, a reliable marker amidst textured stone. From there, the climb shifts into a shallow, left-leaning dihedral where a delicate finger crack demands steady hand jams and precise body positioning to reach a comfortable stance.
The ascent continues along the left side of a blunt arete, where the rock’s character changes—edges sharpen, features become more pronounced, and a ledge offers brief respite. Here, careful footwork preserves balance before moving past a second bolt placed on the route, which leads to another ledge tucked under the outside of the chimney. The final moves take you up this exposed chimney face to reach the anchor zone originally shared with Funhouse Chimney.
Once classified as a sport route, the path has evolved significantly after a large flake broke away, removing some bolts and forcing climbers to trust traditional gear placements again. Today, General Cluster’s Last Stance is a test of both subtle technical skill and route-finding acumen, demanding familiarity with finger-sized cams and confidence in mixed protection. Its 75-foot pitch presents a concentrated burst of climbing that rewards focus and steady movement rather than brute strength.
The approach to Scout Rock is straightforward, with accessible trails that thread through ponderosa pines and scrub oak, offering quiet moments under open skies. The rock here carries the warmth of the Colorado sun, dry and textured, giving good friction to hands and feet. Keep an eye out for shifting wind and variable shade along the canyon walls, which can turn a spring morning crisp or a late afternoon pleasantly cool.
For those eager to explore the quieter side of Lyons’ climbing offerings, this route is a gateway—short but layered with enough features to keep the mind wired and the body engaged. It’s a reminder that great climbs don’t always demand huge walls or lengthy expeditions; sometimes, they unfold in a single, well-crafted pitch that beckons with a blend of natural complexity and straightforward challenge.
Be cautious of loose rock remnants near the initial bolts; the route's history includes flake loss that altered protection. Double-check placements on finger cams and avoid trusting any isolated old bolts that appear unsecured. Also, be aware of potentially sharp edges on the arete when positioning feet.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat or wind shifts in the canyon.
Brush up on finger crack technique, as precise jamming makes the key moves more manageable.
Expect the rock to be chalked in spots from previous ascents, but trust your gear placements over bolts.
Scout Rock's approach trail is moderate and well-marked, but wear sturdy shoes to handle loose gravel near the base.
Secure placement of traditional protections up to 2 inches with two bolts placed along the route; finger-size cams are essential for the finger crack section. Bring extra cams to ensure solid anchors near the top and on the way through the chimney.
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