HomeClimbingGarbage Chute

Garbage Chute at Crystal Lake Crag

Crystal Lake, California United States
flake crack
loose rock
forest access
short pitch
beginner trad
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Garbage Chute
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Garbage Chute in Angeles National Forest offers a short, accessible trad climb with a 5.8 PG13 rating, featuring a prominent flake and a loose rock challenge. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick test of gear placement and steady feet in a stunning forest setting."

Garbage Chute at Crystal Lake Crag

Perched on the edge of Angeles National Forest, Garbage Chute offers a compact but engaging trad climb that challenges climbers with its unique combination of loose rock and straightforward movement. This single-pitch route climbs approximately 30 feet, guided by a prominent flake feature to the right of the better-known Fingerbang route. The ascent demands a careful approach—loose rock peppers the chute, reminding climbers to move deliberately and communicate clearly with their belayers. The route’s 5.8 PG13 rating is approachable for intermediate climbers who are comfortable with moderate exposure and managing gear placements under less-than-ideal rock conditions.

Expect a climb that rewards focus and caution. The flake section provides positive handholds but requires attentive footwork to guard against slipping on subtly unstable stones. Protection here leans heavily on a single rack of cams extending to size #4, suitable for runners confident in placing gear with an eye for reliability amid the gravelly patches. While top-roping is an easy and safe option to familiarize yourself with the route, leading Garbage Chute carries a different energy—its loose sections add an uneasy edge that tests both skill and composure.

Approach access is straightforward from the Crystal Lake Crag trailhead, with a brief hike through chaparral and scattered pine, delivering clear views of the Los Angeles Basin below. The climb’s orientation catches the morning sun early, making spring and fall the optimal seasons to avoid the heat that can bake the rock later in the day. After topping out, the descent is a short downclimb to the base, although caution is advised due to some rocky and loose footing.

This route exemplifies the rugged character of Angeles National Forest’s climbing opportunities—a compact challenge that balances natural adventure with practical logistics. For climbers looking to refine their trad technique in a setting that rewards careful planning and respectful climbing practices, Garbage Chute provides a solid notch on the local tick list, paired with panoramic surroundings and a manageable approach.

Whether you’re gearing up for your first trad lead or adding a quick warm-up route to your day, know that Garbage Chute requires thoughtful protection placement and an even steadier focus on movement. Good shoes with sticky rubber, layered clothing to adapt to temperature swings, and hydration are essentials here. Listen to the forest—coyotes may call from below as the sun dips, and the rock will test your patience as much as your skill. With preparation, this climb delivers a satisfying mix of excitement and cautious respect for the mountain’s worn edges.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks and gravel throughout the route require consistent caution; belayers should wear helmets and maintain attentive communication since falling debris is a real hazard. Approach and descent terrain can be uneven, so watch your footing, especially when carrying gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Toprope the route first to get a feel for loose rock and tricky placements.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maintain footholds on fragile surfaces.

Bring extra slings as backup protection around flake features.

Start early during spring or fall to avoid midday heat on the rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 PG13, Garbage Chute sits comfortably in the moderate trad range but is distinguished by loose rock that demands focused gear placement, making the grade feel slightly more committing than typical climbs of similar rating. The short pitch packs a punch with a crux that isn’t physically intense but can unsettle less confident climbers wary of unstable holds.

Gear Requirements

A single rack of cams up to size #4 is necessary to protect the climb, with careful placements recommended due to loose sections in the chute.

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Tags

flake crack
loose rock
forest access
short pitch
beginner trad