"Furthest Right S Crack is a rugged 38-foot trad pitch in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area where climbers face a choice between tricky protection and challenging movement. It offers a raw, engaging desert experience with an unpolished edge and solid route-finding reward."
Furthest Right S Crack presents a gritty, hands-on introduction to trad climbing in Joshua Tree’s rugged Lost Horse Area. This 38-foot single pitch demands bold route-finding and a keen eye for protection amidst rock that keeps you guessing. The opening moves ask you to decide—commit to the dike on the left, inviting but uncertain in holding gear, or push up a dark finger crack that promises solid placements but less favorable movement. Both paths offer their own brand of challenge with no straightforward option. After committing to one, the route sweeps you left into a low-angle corner layered with larger, positive holds, offering a welcome relief where you can shake the tension out and scramble confidently to the top. This climb balances the raw nature of Joshua Tree's rock with tactical demands, rewarding climbers who come prepared for a bit of adventure mixed with authentic trad exposure.
In this stark desert environment, the rock feels alive and unpredictable beneath your fingertips, demanding both respect and quick judgment. Protection is rooted in fingers and hand-sized gear, making a well-stocked rack essential as placement options can edge toward tricky depending on your chosen line. Unlike more polished climbs, Furthest Right S Crack offers no anchor bolts at its summit, yet a practical workaround exists: a short traverse to the two-bolt anchor of the nearby Jingus Con route provides a safe and convenient belay station. This adds a layer of practical problem-solving to your ascent and descent.
The approach to the climb follows typical Joshua Tree desert terrain, with scrub brush and cracked granite stretching under an expansive sky. Early morning is an ideal window to beat the heat and catch glowing, soft shadows that reveal texture in the rock. Late spring and fall offer the most comfortable climbing temperatures before the summer sun turns merciless. Keep in mind the low-angle corner near the top invites a brief scramble where careful footing is vital as the holds are chunky but the exposure grows.
This route appeals to climbers eager for a straightforward, yet unrefined trad climb with a bit of mental grit and solid route-reading. It’s a quick jaunt by Joshua Tree standards but dense with sensation and decisions—a perfect priority for those seeking an authentic desert tradition. Whether you’re plotting a day of multiple climbs or a brief warm-up, Furthest Right S Crack gives you that gratifying mix of surface friction, route choice, and old-school exposure under a big sky.
Rock quality on the opening moves can be questionable, especially along the dike line. Test placements carefully and prepare for potentially loose edges. The absence of a bolted anchor requires knowledge of the adjacent Jingus Con’s anchor for safe top roping or rappelling. The low-angle scrambling near the top can be slick—watch your footing carefully.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and strong sun exposure.
Bring a full rack of small to medium cams and nuts for the variable protection.
Scout the approach to the anchor atop Jingus Con to ensure a smooth top out or rappel.
Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for the mixed rock textures.
Finger and hand-sized trad gear is essential. Consider the protection variation between the dike and finger crack lines; solid placements line the finger crack, while the dike’s gear might be suspect. No fixed anchor on top; use the two-bolt anchor on the adjacent Jingus Con route for top belays.
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