"Funky Dung offers a short but lively trad climb on Hemingway Buttress’s East Face Left. Featuring a committed, bouldery roof crux protected by a #4 Camalot and a clean crack finish, it’s a perfect challenge for crack enthusiasts seeking desert exposure close to the trailhead."
Funky Dung is a compact but compelling single-pitch trad climb located on the East Face Left of Hemingway Buttress, within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park. From the moment you step up to the base, the route demands your focus—starting just left of the neighboring Overseer climb, it makes a decisive move leftward beneath a prominent roof, introducing a bouldery crux that tests both commitment and technique. Once past this obstacle, the line follows a clean, well-defined crack running straight up to the anchor, rewarding climbers with a clear and direct finish.
The rock feels solid underfoot and hand, though the hollow echo that runs through the formation can nudge your attention toward careful placements. Protection is straightforward yet strategic; a Camalot #4 is essential to shield the roof crux, ideally extended with a long sling to reduce potential rope drag. Many climbers opt to remove this cam once over the crux to keep the rope running free along the final section.
Hemingway Buttress offers expansive views of the desert landscape, with Joshua Tree’s signature granite domes and expansive skies framing the ascent. The climb itself, at 120 feet, packs a focused burst of technical moves and mental engagement, making it perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a high-desert setting without an overly long approach or complicated descent.
The anchor at the top doubles as a rappel station shared with nearby routes like White Lightning, simplifying your descent back to the base. Given the desert climate, early morning or late afternoon attempts are ideal to avoid the harshest sunlight and keep the rock cool. Footwear with sticky rubber and solid edging capability is recommended, alongside hydration suited to the dry air and rugged conditions. Despite its modest rating of 5.8, Funky Dung demands respect for its committing roof move and requires confident footwork in cracks.
This route is a quiet jewel for those wanting a taste of Joshua Tree’s classic crack climbing flavor without the longer approaches or complications of more remote lines. With nearly a hundred votes from the climbing community, it stands out as a rewarding climb where committing to the crux pays off with pure climbing satisfaction.
Be aware that the roof crux demands a confident and committing move; protection is good but feels sparse, so focus carefully on your placement of the #4 Camalot. The rock’s hollow sound requires assessing each hold, and desiccated desert conditions mean hydration is crucial.
Approach early or late in the day to avoid intense sun and heat.
Extend the #4 Camalot placement at the roof with a long sling to reduce rope drag.
Use sticky climbing shoes optimized for crack edging and jamming.
Rappel down using the anchors shared with White Lightning—double-check your setup before descending.
Plan to rack up to a #4 Camalot, essential for protecting the roof crux, best placed with a long sling to minimize rope drag. Smaller cams will secure the crack above the roof. The rock is solid but can resonate hollow sounds; steady placements are important.
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