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Funky Chicken at Chicken Head Ranch, Devil's Head

Sedalia, Colorado United States
arete
sport climbing
pines
single pitch
5.9
bolt anchor
exfoliating rock
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Funky Chicken
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Funky Chicken offers the northwest face’s first bolted route at Chicken Head Ranch, blending approachable sport climbing with a subtle challenge along the arete. With solid protection and a quiet setting, it’s perfect for climbers easing into outdoor routes or refining their skills outside the gym."

Funky Chicken at Chicken Head Ranch, Devil's Head

Funky Chicken stakes its claim as the introductory bolted climb on the northwest face of Chicken Head Ranch, a distinctive formation within the rugged contours of Devil's Head near South Platte, Colorado. This route charts an inviting line straight up the arete, inviting climbers to test their skills on a subtly challenging wall punctuated by reliable fixed protection. Though it doesn't draw large crowds, particularly on the upper sections where rock stability is still a concern, the experience delivers a lively dose of vertical fun suited for sport climbers ready to engage with a modest 5.9 challenge.

The approach to the wall rolls through the pine-scattered landscapes of the Denver foothills, where the scent of pine needles and crisp mountain air heightens the anticipation before even setting foot on the rock. Upon arrival, the northwest face greets climbers with a blend of exposed rock faces and the cheeky riff of occasional exfoliation overhead, a reminder to stay mindful of loose sections while ascending. The climb’s 100-foot length comprises a single, continuous pitch—perfect for rapid ascents or fine-tuning lead climbing confidence.

Protection on Funky Chicken is straightforward: eleven well-placed bolts guide the journey upward, culminating in a two-bolt anchor that offers secure top-out options. The bolting pattern supports smooth movement along the arete while providing peace of mind, allowing climbers to focus on flow and technique instead of gear placement. The rock itself varies in texture—a blend of solid granite with occasional flakes loosening—which keeps the experience anchored in awareness and respect for the natural substrate.

Funky Chicken’s 5.9 rating feels solid but fair, sitting comfortably for climbers stepping beyond beginner routes yet not ready for sustained technical challenges. The crux moments are embedded within the route’s rhythm rather than isolated moves, encouraging a steady pace and attention to footwork. Compared with other popular sport routes in the wider Devil's Head area, this line offers a slightly quieter, less polished feel—ideal for those seeking to broaden their repertoire with an authentic foothills adventure.

Climbing here offers more than just physical challenge; it’s an invitation to engage deeply with a landscape that pushes and tests the climber’s resolve. Devil's Head’s less-traveled status means the environment feels spacious and undisturbed, with sweeping views over pine-dotted hills and sky that shifts color as clouds pass. Climbers should prepare for variable conditions—afternoon sun can bake the rock surface, while morning shade cools the approach and the climb’s base.

To reach Funky Chicken, most visitors undertake a moderate hike from the parking area near South Platte, winding through uneven terrain with an elevation gain that warms the muscles before the climb. The route benefits from early daylight hours, as afternoon heat can add a layer of exhaustion. Footwear with solid edging and sensitivity will reward those looking to maximize foothold precision on the arete’s subtle features. Hydration and layered clothing are practical musts here, as mountain weather can shift quickly.

While safety is generally managed through the reliable bolting, climbers should be cautious of the upper sections where exfoliation still occurs. Helmets are essential, particularly on breezy days when wind can dislodge small rock particles. The descent is straightforward, involving a controlled rappel from the two-bolt anchor, which means climbers should be proficient with their rope management and rappel setup to avoid any last-minute challenges.

In sum, Funky Chicken is a worthy selection for sport climbers eager to experience the quieter corridors of Colorado’s climbing scene. It offers practical exposure, solid protection, and an approachable challenge framed by an invigorating mountain setting. Whether as a progression climb after gym training or a pleasant outdoor expedition, it balances accessibility with enough character to hold interest — a gratifying blend of adventure and straightforward climbing amid the pine-speckled landscapes of the Devil’s Head region.

Climber Safety

Upper sections of the route have some exfoliating rock—helmets are essential, and climbers should avoid dislodging loose flakes. The approach can be uneven, so cautious footing is recommended.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat baking the rock face.

Wear a helmet due to occasional exfoliating rock at the top.

Bring shoes with good edging for precise foothold work on the arete.

Hydrate well; the approach and climb can be deceptively demanding.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.9, Funky Chicken offers a solid, reliable difficulty that sits well for climbers stepping beyond beginner levels. The grade feels consistent with classic sport climbs—no overhanging drama but a sustained technical engagement, with the crux embedded in movement rather than a single hard move. Compared to other Devil’s Head sport routes, it leans toward a more natural, less polished line.

Gear Requirements

The route is secured by 11 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor, ensuring straightforward clipping and assured protection on the climb.

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Tags

arete
sport climbing
pines
single pitch
5.9
bolt anchor
exfoliating rock