"Full Throttle offers a sharp blast of technical sport climbing on El Potrero Chico’s rugged limestone cliffs. With an early roof move and a demanding overhung bulge near the anchors, this 85-foot climb challenges your technique and endurance in one compact pitch."
Full Throttle in El Potrero Chico offers climbers an intense, single-pitch experience that shifts seamlessly from technical face climbing to a commanding overhung bulge near the anchors. The route starts with a playful little roof that tests your balance and footwork right away, inviting both focus and momentum before settling into smoother slab moves that demand steady precision. As you gain height, the wall leans into a steep bulge that challenges your upper body strength and finger endurance, requiring confident foot placements on small edges to keep upward progress smooth.
Set in the rugged northern Mexican limestone region of Nuevo León, the route benefits from clear skies and dry conditions, which sharpen friction on the textured face. From the base, the surrounding cliffs rise sharply, catching the sun for most of the day and warming the rock surface — perfect for cooler mornings or seasons when heat is less punishing. Climbers will appreciate the solid fixed anchors at 85 feet, offering a reliable stop after a sustained push.
This climb caters to sport enthusiasts who crave a punch of difficulty with a compact length that packs variety into each move. Approximately ten to twelve quickdraws will be your partner here, as protection points keep you covered but demand attention to clipping technique, especially through the initial roof and bulge sequences.
Approaching Full Throttle means heading into the heart of Central Scrutinizer, a well-documented sector of El Potrero Chico that blends accessibility with dynamic climbing layouts. The hike to the base is straightforward, winding through dry scrub and sun-baked terrain, making hydration essential even on cooler days. Once on the cliff, the texture of the limestone offers palpable friction, its sharp edges encouraging precise footwork and steady handholds.
While the route’s 5.10d rating suggests a solid challenge, climbers will find the moves flow if their footwork holds steady, though the overhung bulge near the top is the undeniable crux. This section pushes endurance and technique, rewarding those who trust their feet and body positioning. Full Throttle is particularly satisfying for climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills with a route that demands both strength and finesse.
Safety-wise, while the fixed anchors are dependable, the roof and bulge sections require extra focus on clip timings and body tension to avoid any unnecessary swings or falls. Wear shoes with firm edging capabilities, and plan your ascent for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the brunt of the sun. With its moderate length, climbers can typically finish within 30 minutes, leaving plenty of day to explore El Potrero Chico’s many other towering challenges.
Full Throttle is a compact but spirited introduction to some of Nuevo León’s finest limestone climbing, combining a variety of moves and a consistent push that leaves climbers feeling both tested and accomplished. Whether you’re honing technique or chasing your next 5.10d send, this route delivers a focused dose of adventure in one of North America's premier climbing destinations.
While protection is well spaced and reliable, the roof entry and overhung top section require careful clipping and controlled movement to avoid swings. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet or greasy, as the sharp edges can become slippery.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the south-facing wall.
Hydrate thoroughly before the approach; dry scrub terrain offers little shade.
Wear shoes with strong edging for the technical slab and bulge moves.
Focus on clip timing through the roof to prevent rope drag or swings.
Expect to bring 10 to 12 quickdraws to stay well-protected through the roof and bulge sections. Fixed anchors are solid, but clipping precision is key.
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