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Full Body Rock Rash: A Bold Challenge at Bear Mountain

Moncton, Canada
trad-sport hybrid
overhang traverse
medium-large cams
granite
single-pitch
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Full Body Rock Rash
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Full Body Rock Rash crafts a fearless line on Bear Mountain’s granite spine, blending sport bolts with key trad placements. This short but demanding pitch tests crack technique and gear savvy, set against a raw, wind-swept New Brunswick backdrop."

Full Body Rock Rash: A Bold Challenge at Bear Mountain

Full Body Rock Rash commands your focus from the moment your fingers find hold in the gritty corner beneath striking twin cracks on Bear Mountain's Second Tier. This single-pitch climb measures 30 feet of gritty stone, mixing sport bolts with strategic trad placements, making it a true test of your crack climbing mettle and route-reading skill. Right at the overhang, the route demands a deliberate traverse left, reaching for the bolt that offers solace beneath that sheltering lip. Pulling over this jutting rock onto the upper flake crack requires precise technique and confidence, as medium to large cams are essential for protecting this exposed section. Bear Mountain, often referred to as Bald Hill, stretches its rocky spine into the New Brunswick wilderness, where wind and weather sharpen every move and the granite retains a cool, raw edge. Here, the rock seems to push back, daring your fingers to stick, your feet to trust, and your mind to plan each move with care.

Approaching Full Body Rock Rash from the base, expect a straightforward but firm stable footing with intriguing features that reveal the climb’s technical focus early on. The combination of sport bolts intertwined with chosen placements invites a hybrid style, rewarding those who bring a varied rack and steady nerve. Although relatively short, every inch packs intensity, with the overhang acting as a natural obstacle that separates a warm-up from the heart of the climb.

This route demands more than just strength—it requires tactical gear management. Medium to large cams are your lifeline on the flake crack beyond the bolt ladder, and the rock quality varies between solid patches and delicate seams where precise placements matter. Climbers should come equipped with a standard trad rack supplemented by quickdraws for the bolts. Footwear with sticky rubber is crucial to maintain traction on the steeper faces and edges.

Temperatures here can swing mid-season, so timing your ascent on cool spring or fall days lets you maximize grip and reduce sweat-induced slips. Bear Mountain’s exposed aspects mean that sun can alternately bake and chill the rock, so layering and hydration are critical. The area’s remote aura enhances the sense of accomplishment once the climb is sent, but means preparation is key—cell service can be spotty, and rescue options take time to mobilize. Practicing smooth, confident transitions between sport bolts and trad placements will keep rope drag at bay and conserve energy for the crux move over the lip.

For those drawn to multifeature routes that challenge both mental and physical climbing skills, Full Body Rock Rash is a must-visit on New Brunswick’s climbing map. It offers a tangible taste of wilderness climbing, where the rock’s character shapes the experience and every hold is a calculated choice. This blend of protection styles reflects the evolving nature of Bear Mountain’s climbs—classic yet approachable if you bring your head and heart together. Expect the experience to sharpen your technique and amplify your respect for this rugged Canadian outcrop.

Climber Safety

Climbers should take extra caution placing pro above the overhang as space is limited and placements require confidence. The rock quality is generally solid but watch for lichen patches near the base. Approach carefully as the remote location means weather can change quickly.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Bring medium and large cams to protect the upper crack securely.

Plan your traverse under the overhang carefully to maintain balance.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for optimal friction on granite.

Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid heat-soaked rock and maintain grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, Full Body Rock Rash offers a challenging but fair test of crack climbing skills combined with technical movement. The grade feels appropriately stiff, especially moving past the overhang where precise placements and sustained moves increase the intensity. Compared to nearby routes on Bear Mountain, it stands out for combining bolted security with trad gear negotiation, demanding versatility rather than pure endurance.

Gear Requirements

This route relies primarily on sport bolts, but medium to large cams are critical for securing the upper crack section beyond the overhang. A balanced rack including trad gear and quickdraws is necessary to protect safely.

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Tags

trad-sport hybrid
overhang traverse
medium-large cams
granite
single-pitch