Friends: Boulder Canyon's Classic Two-Pitch Sport Climb

Boulder, Colorado United States
slab climbing
two-pitch
technical moves
moderate rope drag
blocky terrain
quartzite
Boulder Canyon
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Friends
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Friends is a straightforward two-pitch sport climb on Boulder Canyon’s quartzite, blending technical slab moves and a bulging crux with solid protection. This route offers accessible multi-pitch experience with scenic views and manageable rope work, ideal for climbers seeking a classic Colorado ascent."

Friends: Boulder Canyon's Classic Two-Pitch Sport Climb

Rising sharply across from the rugged skeleton of Cascade Crag, Friends presents a compelling climb for those seeking a focused sport route that stretches your endurance without demanding extreme difficulty. Starting on a compact mini-buttress just to the left of a lone tree, the climb invites you to engage with tactile slab climbing that rewards your right-hand fingers with a reliable crack feature right at the outset. The first few bolts secure your climb through an initial slab that demands both precise footwork and steady balance, while a right-facing dihedral offers an optional respite with placements for a small cam, helping steady your progress.

As the route unfolds, the climb challenges you with a bulging move that tests your commitment before you reach a well-protected two-bolt anchor. At this point, you have the option to belay or push onward along a blocky arete, where a series of bolted moves guide you past easy but engaging terrain, arriving at a second anchor system equipped with Mussy hooks for your final clipping.

Beyond the main line, there's a quirky variation starting at the second bolt on the upper pitch that veers right, threading through an additional three bolts before navigating over a roof to clip one or two more bolts. This variation, rated at 5.8, is slightly more complex, introducing extra rope drag and requiring long slings and more quickdraws to manage the rope efficiently. While it adds variety, many climbers find the direct path more straightforward and practical.

Friends spans roughly 100 feet and is comfortably accessible with a single 60-meter rope, though splitting it into two pitches is advisable for smoother movement and rope management. The rock texture here is classic Boulder Canyon quartzite—solid and grippy, with occasional blocky sections that provide natural rests. Expect a moderately sustained climb where the initial slab gains the bulk of the difficulty, followed by more moderate terrain.

Approaching Friends involves a quick yet scenic entry into Boulder Canyon, a climbing destination renowned for its granite and quartzite walls. The area offers impressive vistas toward the Continental Divide and the bustling town of Boulder beyond. Climbers preparing for this route should bring a standard sport rack with around 11 bolts plus a small cam—sizes like a red Alien or #0.5 Camalot are recommended if you intend to run the entire climb in a single pitch.

Timing your climb during Boulder’s spring and fall months maximizes comfort as the wall enjoys partial shade in the morning, warming up gently as the sun climbs higher. In summer, earlier starts are essential to beat the heat. Descending is straightforward with rappels from the double-bolt anchors, but ensure you use a 60-meter rope or manage a single rope with care.

Friends offers a tangible slice of Boulder Canyon’s climbing heritage: technical enough to engage newer sport climbers but rewarding for even seasoned locals who appreciate the nuances of rock texture, protection placement, and rhythm. Proper preparation—hydration, gear, and timing—blends with the route’s inviting exposure and approachable moves to craft an outing that's as practical as it is satisfying.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the third bolt on the first pitch; the rope can become pinched as you climb above it, increasing friction. The optional upper variation includes a roof with tricky rope management and requires longer slings; unwary climbers might encounter increased rope drag and positional challenges. Always double-check anchors and descent ropes before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the quartzite slabs.

Bring a 60-meter rope for comfortable pitches and easy rappels.

Consider sticking to the main line to minimize rope drag and gear complexity.

Small cams can be very useful in the optional dihedral section for additional security.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels generous thanks to well-spaced bolts and mostly straightforward moves, though the initial slab requires precise finger jams and careful balance. The bulge before the first anchor bumps the effort slightly but remains within a moderate difficulty range. Compared to other Boulder Canyon sport routes, Friends leans toward the accessible end, making it an excellent choice for climbers expanding into multi-pitch sport routes who aren’t looking for high crux intensity.

Gear Requirements

The climb is equipped with 11 bolts along the main line, complemented by room for a small cam—think a red Alien or a #0.5 Camalot—especially if you choose to climb it in a single pitch. Quickdraws that allow for some extension or longer slings will ease rope drag, particularly when exploring the optional upper variation.

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Tags

slab climbing
two-pitch
technical moves
moderate rope drag
blocky terrain
quartzite
Boulder Canyon