HomeClimbingFriend Eater

Friend Eater at Lloyd's Rock in Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad crack
single pitch
desert sun
gear to 3 inches
east facing
short approach
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Friend Eater
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Friend Eater twists off the beaten path at Lloyd's Rock with a compelling slanting crack that tests your trad skills in a short 50-foot pitch. Ideal for climbers seeking a solid challenge in Joshua Tree’s distinctive desert landscape."

Friend Eater at Lloyd's Rock in Joshua Tree National Park

Friend Eater offers a focused burst of classic Joshua Tree trad climbing on a slanting crack that cuts diagonally up and to the right. Starting at the same base as the well-known Flawless Fissure, this route invites climbers to pivot off the familiar line and explore a less traveled but gratifying path. The crack challenges you with steady hand jams and subtle foot placements, demanding a solid rack of protection up to 3 inches. Though it lacks the consistent quality of its neighbor, Friend Eater rewards those seeking a short, engaging pitch amid the sun-soaked granite of Lost Horse Area. Ambience here is defined by the rocking desert chorus—sharp bird calls, the faint scrape of granite underfoot, and an occasional breeze that pushes heat off your back.

This single-pitch climb spans about 50 feet and lands safely on a broad ledge that gives space to relax and take in the panoramic views of Joshua Tree’s rugged boulders and spiny vegetation below. The rock demands attention; its texture is coarse but reliable, maintaining friction that pushes your balance and technique, especially in the sections where the crack tails out. Bringing cams sized up to 3 inches is essential, as placements can pinch or require careful fiddling in some sections.

Getting here requires a straightforward approach on well-established trails from the Lost Horse parking area. Expect a 15 to 20-minute hike over rocky, uneven ground that carries the desert’s dry heat, so early starts or late afternoons offer gentler temperatures and a softer light that enriches the granite’s warm tones. The route’s southeast aspect catches the sun early, making morning climbs especially pleasant before the desert heat peaks.

Protection is straightforward but critical: a traditional rack loaded with a full range of cams to 3 inches gets you secure placements, although some tricky spots call for careful judgment. The shared start with Flawless Fissure helps with locating the route but be ready for a subtle shift right onto Friend Eater's diagonal crack. This variation has earned modest praise for its enjoyable climbing moves but falls just short of being a top-tier pitch in the area, making it a perfect choice for climbers who appreciate solid, short trad lines without crowds.

Plan your timing with an eye toward hydration and sun protection. Water is scarce once on the trail, and the rocky approach provides no shade. Footwear with excellent edging ability will serve best on the granite steps, and a helmet is advisable given occasional loose rock near the start. The descent is uncomplicated, with a walk-off to the trailhead that saves time and effort after the pitch.

Friend Eater is a compact adventure that invites quiet connection with Joshua Tree’s granite grit—an honest climb that blends accessible challenge with a strong dose of desert character, ideal for those who enjoy trad routes off the beaten track.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose stone near the start and place protection carefully to avoid gear pullout. The approach trail is rocky and uneven, so take care with your footing, especially in the heat.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the desert heat and enjoy cooler morning light.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging for granite friction.

Carry plenty of water; no reliable sources on the trail.

Helmet recommended due to occasional loose rock near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Friend Eater sits true to the move difficulty, with solid hands and fingers jammed into the slanting crack. It presents a crux where the crack thins, demanding precise footwork and body positioning. Compared to Flawless Fissure, it’s slightly less sustained but offers a refreshing diagonal challenge unique to Lloyd's Rock.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of cams up to 3 inches to handle all the placements along the diagonal crack. Some spots require precise placement, so avoid overstuffing or skipping sizes.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
desert sun
gear to 3 inches
east facing
short approach