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Friday the 13th at Schmaltz Dome

Lone Pine, California USA
side pull crux
desert sport
single pitch
volcanic rock
well-bolted
Length: 75 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Friday the 13th
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Friday the 13th in Alabama Hills offers a sharp, 75-foot challenge with a bold side-pull crux low on clean volcanic rock. This well-bolted sport route rewards precise movement and steady nerves amid sweeping desert views."

Friday the 13th at Schmaltz Dome

Friday the 13th offers a concise yet thrilling introduction to sport climbing in the rugged Alabama Hills, situated along California’s eastern Sierra. This 75-foot route is a compact burst of adventure, demanding steady technique and confidence from start to finish. The climb begins with a distinctive side-pull crux low on the wall, where the holds challenge your grip and beta awareness early on. Overcoming this initial obstacle reveals a smooth, sustained climb with clean, solid holds that reward your effort with satisfying movement.

The rock here is typical of the Alabama Hills’ durable volcanic formations, providing excellent friction and encouraging precise footwork. The route is protected by 10 well-spaced bolts, ensuring a safe lead while maintaining the adventure of pushing your limits. As you ascend, the wall opens to wide views of the surrounding rugged landscape, with dusty, sun-baked boulders fanning out beneath the expansive sky.

Accessing Friday the 13th is straightforward, making it an ideal choice for climbers seeking a balanced dose of challenge without a long approach. The trail to Schmaltz Dome is a short hike featuring uneven terrain covered in desert scrub and loose stones—solid footwear with good traction is essential here. Time your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the brutal midday heat that the open, south-facing wall invites during summer months.

Whether you’re stepping onto this route as a confident 5.9 sport climber or looking to dial in your lead skills on compact, technical terrain, Friday the 13th delivers exactly what it promises: a focused, engaging experience where every move counts. Hydrate well, clip efficiently, and prepare to enjoy a quintessential east Sierra climb that breaks down the grade into straightforward but distinctly satisfying pitches.

The Alabama Hills environment adds a unique character to the climb as wind and sun shape your sensory experience, while distant mountain peaks anchor your perspective. The route’s manageable length lets you fit it into a full day of climbing in the area or combine it with nearby routes for a varied outing. It’s a climb that respects the desert’s raw energy, demanding your focus without unnecessary complexity.

Climber Safety

Despite solid bolt placements, the desert environment means rock can be dusty or loose near the ground—check footholds thoroughly. Avoid climbing during peak heat hours to prevent dehydration and sun exposure.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat on the south-facing wall.

Wear approach shoes with good grip for the rocky trail.

Carry extra water; desert conditions dehydrate quickly.

Check bolt integrity during your lead, as desert weather can wear hardware.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels solidly anchored by the side-pull crux near the bottom, which sets the tone for the rest of the climb. While the main crux feels well-defined, the moves above smooth out, making the grade feel fair for climbers comfortable at this level. Compared to other 5.9 routes in the Alabama Hills, it leans toward the more technical side but avoids sustained pump sessions or awkward rests.

Gear Requirements

Sport climbing with 10 fixed bolts. Bring quickdraws and a standard sport rack. No trad gear needed.

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Tags

side pull crux
desert sport
single pitch
volcanic rock
well-bolted