"Tackle the technical crack start of Friday Football Feast before cruising up a juggy face on this approachable 40-foot sport climb at Quarry Wall. A spring-to-fall favorite for those looking to sharpen technique and enjoy accessible climbing near Canon City."
Friday Football Feast is a concise but engaging sport climb perched on the rugged Quarry Wall near Canon City, Colorado, a spot known for accessible, fun lines amid dramatic sandstone formations. At just 40 feet, this one-pitch route offers an ideal gateway for climbers seeking a straightforward yet thought-provoking challenge. The climb begins with a technical crack section that demands quiet focus and subtle technique, edging you upward before transitioning into a juggy face boasting two convenient bolts. The final stretch rewards with a steady, confident pull towards the top, where secure chained anchors await. The wall faces south, catching clear Colorado sun that warms the sandstone, making it a comfortable pick for cooler months or early mornings in the warmer seasons. The approach is manageable, with a short walk from the popular shelf road parking area, threading through scattered scrub and sturdy pines that guard the base, their needles rustling in the canyon breeze.
Given its modest length and moderate difficulty rating of 5.9, Friday Football Feast strikes a fine balance between accessible climbing and moments that capture your attention through mindful movement. Protection comes via three well-spaced clips leading to solid chains overhead, perfect for sport climbers focusing on movement without hauling racks. This route is well-suited for those building finger strength and crack technique without committing to longer climbs. Climbers will appreciate the sharp contrast between the initial crack, which challenges precision, and the more forgiving juggy holds that ease tension on the way up.
Prepare to wear shoes with a solid edge for the crack start, and bring sufficient water and sun protection—the sun isn’t shy on this south-facing wall. Early spring through fall are prime times to visit, as the route is exposed to the elements, with winter bringing chillier temps that can dull the grips. Locals often time their climbs to avoid the afternoon heat, opting instead for crisp mornings or late afternoons when shade filters through the canyon walls. While the climb’s brief length means it can be linked with other nearby routes for a fuller adventure, Friday Football Feast stands on its own as a sharp, practical introduction to the climbing around Canon City’s famed shelves.
Despite its accessible nature, be mindful on the crack start where tight foot placements can test balance. The rock is solid but occasionally sharp edges exist near the crack entrance. Anchors are secure, but always double-check before lowering.
Arrive early to avoid afternoon heat on this south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with a firm edge for better purchase in the crack start.
Bring sun protection—the route is exposed to direct sunlight most of the day.
Consider combining with nearby routes along Shelf Road for a full climbing session.
Three well-spaced sport clips lead confidently to chained anchors. Sticky climbing shoes recommended for tricky crack start.
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