"Friction Slab provides a pure traditional climb on pristine granite faces just outside Kernville. With a moderate 5.8 rating and sound protection, it offers a crisp, balanced challenge for climbers who value solid footwork and refined friction technique."
Hidden within the rugged terrain of Kernville Rock, Friction Slab offers a focused taste of traditional climbing on immaculate white granite. This single-pitch route stretches a solid 170 feet, inviting climbers to engage with its clean face, punctuated by hand-sized cracks and strategic foot placements that demand balance and precision. The climb begins at the same starting point as the nearby Lieback, then veers right onto a sheer wall that tests your ability to read subtle features and trust your feet. As you move upward, the granite’s texture challenges your friction technique, while discreet protection offers just enough security without spoiling the purity of the experience.
The route culminates at the “bathtub ledge,” a natural resting spot where the Lieback’s first pitch ends and where you’ll find your bearings before a short final pitch approaching a modern two-bolt anchor. From this vantage point, you can rappel the route in two sections using single rope, thanks to an intermediate station about midway on the face, or extend the adventure by continuing to the top through Claustrophobia Crack. The route’s protection consists of a mix of bolts and a handful of traditional placements, ranging from tiny to moderate-sized pieces. The climb’s re-equipment preserves the classic feel with vintage Leeper hangers fixed to the updated bolt line, a detail reflecting the blend of old school and modern safety standards.
Set against the backdrop of the Southern Sierra’s sweeping wilderness, Kernville Rock is an inviting zone for climbers who want to combine the thrill of traditional climbing with the serenity of well-kept granite. The area itself offers a straightforward approach, keeping the focus on the climb, and rewarding efforts with clear lines and solid rock quality. Whether you’re prepping for your first trad lead or adding a trusted favorite to your logbook, Friction Slab’s crisp holds and moderate 5.8 rating deliver a confident, engaging experience without unnecessary complication.
Plan your ascent during spring and fall when temperatures mellow the rock, while summer afternoons bring warm granite that enhances friction but can sap energy quickly. Approach trails are clear but can be hot; carry plenty of water and wear shoes that balance grip with comfort for the approach hike and the climb. Don’t overlook weather changes—late season storms move through the Sierra quickly, so a timely exit and secured gear will keep your adventure smooth. Once at the top, the expansive views remind you that each step on this slab draws you deeper into a landscape both welcoming and wild, where skill and patience pay off in pure climbing satisfaction.
While protection is generally solid, the route involves some runouts between bolts and gear placements that require careful observation. The granite is clean but can be slick if wet, so avoid climbing in damp conditions. The two-stage rappel necessitates attention to rope management and anchor checks before descent.
Start at the Lieback trailhead and traverse right to access the Friction Slab face.
Bring two ropes if planning to rappel in two sections to avoid complicated backclipping.
Optimal climbing occurs in spring and fall when temperatures keep the granite from overheating.
Hydrate well before the climb—shade is limited, and the approach can turn warm quickly.
The route is protected with a combination of modern bolts and traditional pieces ranging from tiny to 2-inch cams. Vintage Leeper hangers have been retained on new bolts, adding a classic touch to your placements. Carry a standard trad rack to cover hand-sized cracks and expect to place gear efficiently between bolts.
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