"Fricken Chicken delivers a focused, technical 35-foot climb on a steep pocketed face in Texas Canyon. Perfect for sport climbers craving a well-protected crux and a brief but intense challenge without the complications of multi-pitch routes."
Fricken Chicken offers an immediate burst of challenge on a compact 35-foot face, standing out as a straightforward yet engaging climb within the Angeles National Forest. This route sits on the Waco Wall in the heart of Texas Canyon, a rugged pocket of scenic rock formations that beckon climbers with clean lines and approachable exposure. From the ground, the wall presents a steep profile peppered with textured pockets and edges that invite hand and foot precision.
Starting at the base, your fingers find confident purchase in a generous pocket leading directly to the first bolt. From there, the climb shifts into a rhythm of controlled movements as you tackle a modest bulge, using side pulls and incut holds that demand focus and balance. Though the overhang isn't overly aggressive, it requires a quiet determination to stay close and maintain body tension.
Pulling over the bulge means committing to small edges and side pulls before reaching the final segment of the climb—the delicately positive face leading up to the chains. The rock’s clean texture provides reliable friction, though the holds can feel modest, advising careful foot placement and an attention to subtle body positioning. Whether you’re working through the move on lead or top-roping for practice, Fricken Chicken rewards climbers with a satisfying conclusion on solid, well-bolted stone.
The protection is straightforward: three bolts anchor you safely along the route, culminating with a sturdy chain anchor for quick clipping or lowering. This makes it an approachable choice for climbers seeking a well-protected line in a natural setting without the overhead rigor of traditional climbing. The single pitch length keeps the climb compact, inviting multiple repeats or warm-ups before tackling longer routes nearby.
Accessing the climb means heading into the Angeles National Forest, with the Texas Canyon area offering a blend of rugged desert rock and forested pockets. The approach trail is moderate in difficulty, crossing intermittent scrub and boulder fields—expect a 10-15 minute hike from parking areas. Latitude 34.51406 and longitude -118.40158 mark the GPS coordinates for your starting point, ensuring an easy find on your navigational device.
Climbing here benefits from afternoon shade as the south-facing wall catches the morning sun but cools down as the day progresses. Spring and fall provide the most comfortable conditions for climbing, avoiding the searing heat of summer while steering clear of winter chill and potential rains.
Local tips emphasize wearing sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the small edges and side pulls, carrying plenty of water given the dry conditions, and scouting the route before lead climbing to familiarize yourself with the sequence. The clean bolts and secure anchors foster confidence, but always check fixed gear before trusting it completely.
Fricken Chicken is a perfect blend of accessible challenge and natural beauty, appealing to climbers seeking a short and punchy sport climb inside one of Southern California’s most vibrant outdoor climbing destinations. It’s an opportunity to test skills on solid rock with a straightforward approach that allows more time to soak in the surrounding wilderness and desert vistas.
Though bolts are solid, the route has a short overhang that could catch a climber off-guard if they lose balance. The rock is generally sound, but small loose flakes near the base warrant cautious approach. Avoid climbing after rain as the rock gets slick.
Use sticky rubber shoes for secure edging on small side pulls.
Bring plenty of water—the area is dry and sun-exposed in the morning.
Scout the route from the ground to identify key holds before attempting the bulge.
Check fixed bolts and anchors for wear, but they are generally reliable.
Three solid bolts mark the route with a secure chain anchor at the top. The protection allows confident lead climbing with no gear placements needed beyond clipping bolts.
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