"French Maid is an approachable 40-foot trad climb on The Nursery’s far left wall at Smoke Bluffs. It’s perfect for beginners wanting to practice crack climbing with straightforward protection and a simple walk-off descent."
French Maid offers a straightforward introduction to traditional climbing tucked in the quieter reaches of The Nursery area, part of the well-loved Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch climb, stretching roughly 40 feet, presents a gentle crack system located on the far left side of the wall, perfect for climbers easing into crack protection and trad techniques. From the ground, the rock greets you with a clean surface marked by solid edges and inviting finger-width sections. The crack itself runs vertically with little complexity, allowing a steady rhythm that encourages measured placements and steady movement.
As you ascend, the forest surrounding The Nursery imparts a calm atmosphere, with soft whispers from fir trees framing the quiet rock face. The ambient sounds and the scent of pine transport climbers into a focused state, where the simple pleasure of moving upward is front and center. Be mindful to stick to the crack line on the far left; a tempting but more challenging 5.7 route called The Hopper lies just to the right and can easily pull wandering climbers off track.
Protection for French Maid calls for a standard rack with small to medium cams and some nuts. The gear placement is straightforward but requires a careful eye to maintain solid protection while navigating the slabby sections toward the finish. At the top, a bolted anchor provides a secure belay, though it lacks a rappel ring, so plan accordingly for a walk-off descent climber's right. This accessible exit path winds along rocky ledges and forest floor, making the descent quick but requiring attention to footing.
For those new to trad, French Maid is a practical choice to build confidence in gear placements and crack technique without facing severe challenges. It’s best enjoyed in late spring through early fall, when the Smoke Bluffs bask in dry conditions and moderate temperatures. Early morning ascents benefit from cool shade, while afternoons can bring warmer sun, especially on The Nursery’s west-facing slab. This route is both a training ground and an enjoyable outing, free from the congestion of the busier sectors nearby.
Keep hydrated and wear shoes with sensitive rubber for engaging the crack edges effectively. The approach is a short, clean trail within The Nursery, taking less than ten minutes from the main parking lot near the Smoke Bluffs visitor area. This ease of access coupled with straightforward climbing makes French Maid a welcome stop for anyone looking to sharpen foundational trad skills amid inspiring nature.
Whether it’s your first trad crack or a casual climb after a longer day, French Maid offers a glimpse into the climbing culture of Squamish, pairing manageable difficulty with natural beauty and solid rock quality that holds up under scrutiny. This slice of the Coastal Mountains invites adventurers to blend learning and exploration with the grounding presence of old-growth forest and granite standing proudly over the valley below.
Though the route is short and easy, climbers should watch for loose rock near the top of the crack and remain cautious during the walk-off descent on uneven terrain. The bolted anchor lacks a rappel ring, so ensure everyone is prepared to walk off safely and avoid risky downclimbing.
Stick to the far left crack to avoid accidentally moving onto the adjacent 5.7 route, The Hopper.
Wear climbing shoes with sensitive rubber to maximize grip on the crack edges and slab areas.
Approach via the main Nursery trail takes about 10 minutes from the Smoke Bluffs parking area; trail is well-marked and relatively easy.
Best climbed in dry conditions from late spring to early fall; mornings offer cooler shade while afternoons bring sun exposure.
Standard trad rack recommended, including a selection of small and medium cams. The bolted anchor at the top has no rappel ring, so prepare for a walk-off descent climber's right.
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