"French Connection is a brief but power-packed sport climb on small holds in Cougar Canyon. Its continuous, demanding moves test finger strength and control, perfect for climbers chasing a sharp, focused challenge near Canmore, Alberta."
French Connection stands as a brief but intense challenge carved into the left side of the Made in the Shade sector, just near Crowbar in Cougar Canyon. This 30-foot sport climb offers a relentless sequence of moves that demands precise finger strength and focus. The route presents a stretch of continuous climbing on very small holds, forcing climbers to engage every muscle and maintain control from the bottom to the top. Unlike longer routes that offer moments to rest, the sustained nature here keeps your concentration razor-sharp, making each move critical.
Cougar Canyon itself sits within Bow Valley, a region framed by rugged peaks and the quiet rush of nearby creeks. The canyon’s walls hold a cool temperament, sheltered enough to protect climbers from the harsh Alberta sun during midday, creating an environment where crisp mountain air blends with the subtle sounds of water flowing below. On approach, you’ll find the hike manageable, threading through a forested path that gradually leads you to this steep face.
Protection comes in the form of two well-placed bolts, guiding you safely to the anchors above. While the climb’s short length may suggest a quick run, the route’s intensity means you’ll need to come prepared with solid sport climbing shoes and chalk to keep those tiny holds confident beneath your fingertips. Climbers rating 5.11+ will find French Connection a true test, especially given the small holds and minimal rest opportunities.
Ideally, plan your climb for spring through early autumn, as wet or icy conditions can quickly turn these delicate grips treacherous. Morning or late afternoon sessions provide cooler temperatures and a gentler sun angle, allowing better hold friction without overheating. Don’t underestimate the power-packed nature of this climb — even experienced climbers acknowledge its stiff crux.
For those aiming to push their limits in a compact format, French Connection delivers all the adrenaline of a sport climb without the length. It’s the kind of route that rewards precision and composure, inviting climbers to engage fully with the rock’s challenging personality. With a little preparation and respect for its demands, this route promises a satisfying ascent that leaves a vivid impression long after you step back onto the forest floor.
Stay mindful of the small holds, especially if the rock is damp or dusty, as this can drastically reduce grip. The two-bolt protection means confidence on lead is essential, and falling on tiny holds demands strong mental focus. Avoid the climb if conditions are wet or icy, as this will increase slip risk.
Wear sticky, well-broken-in sport climbing shoes to handle tiny holds effectively.
Bring ample chalk as the small holds demand extra friction control.
Approach via the forest trail on the left side of Made in the Shade; expect about a 10-minute walk.
Aim to climb during morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler to maximize grip.
The route is protected by two bolts leading to the anchors, requiring sport climbing gear including a quickdraw set and a rope suitable for 30-foot pitches.
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