"Freeslider offers six pitches of solid alpine climbing on featured granite in Sequoia National Park. The route combines moderate cracks and face climbing with a memorable descent, perfect for climbers seeking a balanced mix of adventure and technical challenge."
Freeslider presents a gratifying alpine climb that merges moderate difficulty with the thrill of exposed Sierra granite. Situated in the Tamarack Lake area of Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, this six-pitch route spans roughly 800 feet, rewarding climbers with crisp dihedrals, splitter cracks, and unexpected stretches of clean face climbing. The granite here is wonderfully featured, offering reliable holds and a sense of flow through the pitches.
From the approach, the climb catches the eye as a clear line up a prominent dihedral visible high on Horn Peak’s face. The route’s name points to the descent experience—an exhilarating glissade that demands a bit of gravity’s playfulness after the summit has been reached. Accessing the climb generally involves a descent into Elizabeth Pass if approached from nearby Saber Ridge, adding a sense of remoteness and adventure that suits experienced parties seeking a full alpine day.
Pitch 1 eases you into the climb with moderate moves that hug an irregular crack system, occasionally veering to the face to avoid damp sections. The stance at the pitch’s end offers a welcomed breathing spot, though it may tempt you to push on to the superior but less protected belay just above. Pitch 2 pushes upward through an obvious crack that wanders slightly; vigilance on wet patches keeps the climb smooth and safe.
Pitch 3 presents a split crack that appears to lead nowhere, demanding a decision to place protection and traverse left on sturdy knobs. The terrain here steps away from pure crack climbing, encouraging a short runout on solid holds toward a belay ledge tucked right of the main dihedral.
Pitch 4 is the heart of the route, climbing the featured dihedral with satisfying patina holds on the left. The corner tightens into a blocky section that could be loose, but it is manageable with care and experience. This pitch sits at 5.8, offering a slight increase in technical challenge while maintaining a fun rhythm.
Pitch 5 continues the journey up the dihedral, introducing a bushy obstacle and an intriguing traverse to a diorite face slab where a splitter layback awaits the adventurer willing to explore a sideways move. The belay above a small pinnacle is secure and offers a moment to appreciate the rugged backdrop.
The final pitch climbs out from the pinnacle and back into the main dihedral, following a thin crack system before a short, steeper section equipped well for protection allows movement onto good quality diorite face holds. The last stretch veers right toward a clear break in the roof line, guiding climbers steadily toward the summit ridge and a satisfying finish.
Protection is standard alpine with a focus on cams ranging from small to mid-sized, including BD #0.1 through #5, though larger sizes could be optional for those comfortable with some exposure. Nuts supplement protection and natural anchors mark all belay stations. A 60m rope is ideal for the pitch lengths, and carrying tat to back up rappels is advisable given the descent’s glissade.
Gear up for a route that balances technical sections with runout opportunities, demanding sharp route-finding and confident rack management. Footwear with solid edging and sticky rubber helps on the diorite face climbing phases. Hydration and timing your round trip early in the day avoid afternoon storms common in this high country.
Freeslider invites climbers ready for a genuine alpine experience that blends Sierra granite texture with the grandeur of Sequoia wilderness. The ascent rewards those who can navigate mixed protection challenges while soaking in spacious views and the crisp taste of mountain air high above Tamarack Lake.
The descent involves a glissade down loose terrain, making careful foot placement essential to avoiding slips or rockfall. Some pitches have runouts where protection is sparse, so consistent focus on gear placement and route finding is critical. Wet rock patches, particularly lower on the approach and early pitches, can also increase risk—check conditions beforehand.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the Sierra.
Watch for wet patches on lower cracks, especially on Pitch 1 and Pitch 2.
Bring sturdy footwear with sticky rubber for the varied face climbs.
Prepare for a fun but cautious descent via a glissade off the summit.
A 60 meter rope and a standard alpine rack are essential for Freeslider. Bring a selection of cams from BD #0.1 to #5; the larger sizes are helpful but optional if comfortable with some runouts. Nuts supplement protection well. All anchors are natural, and carrying tat to back up rappels is recommended for the descent’s glissade.
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