HomeClimbingFree Prayer Mat

Free Prayer Mat

Banff, Alberta Canada
smooth granite
no-hands rest
technical corner
bolt protected
tricky clipping
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Free Prayer Mat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Free Prayer Mat fuses two approachable routes into a technical 5.11d sport climb nestled in Banff’s Black Feather Canyon. Master smooth, sustained moves, use strategic no-hands rests, and navigate a leftward traverse to finish in a unique technical corner that tests precision and strength."

Free Prayer Mat

Set against the rugged backdrop of Banff National Park’s renowned Black Feather Canyon, Free Prayer Mat offers a concentrated surge of technical sport climbing that challenges and rewards with equal measure. This single-pitch route summons climbers to begin on the stiff, sustained start of Carnal Prayer Mat (rated 5.12b), testing finger strength and balance on smooth, compact holds. A vital moment awaits near the sixth bolt: a no-hands rest that demands a carefully placed long sling to manage rope drag and maximize recovery. From there, the route veers left, transitioning into a traverse that slides into the rest zone inherited from its sister line, Free Hook Up — another spot where an extended sling transforms what could be a taxing section into a calculated breather. The final meters ascend through a quirky, technical corner reminiscent of Free Hook Up’s signature finish, where movement precision and body positioning finalise the climb’s flow. This route elegantly weaves the accessible sections of two adjacent climbs into one fluid journey of controlled commitment and tactical climbing. Expect well-spaced bolts that reward mindful clipping and consistent effort throughout. Located within the iconic granite walls of Banff, Free Prayer Mat not only tests climbers’ fitness and technique but also grants a moment to breathe in the rarefied mountain air, framed by towering peaks and crisp alpine light. Approach is straightforward, though the canyon’s quiet remoteness calls for thoughtful timing and preparation. With protection relying solely on bolts, the route is well-equipped but demands confident clipping and respect for the lead. For climbers ready to push into sustained 5.11d terrain—where every move counts—Free Prayer Mat offers a sleek, technical encounter that merges the physical with the mental, all amidst one of Canada’s most striking natural arenas.

Climber Safety

While well-protected with bolts, the route’s reliance on extended slings for no-hands rests means careful gear management is crucial. The rock is usually solid but smooth, so precise footwork and secure clipping are essential to avoid falls, especially on the traverse section.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Bring at least two very long slings to manage rope drag and rest spots efficiently.

Start early to avoid afternoon shadows on the smooth granite face.

Check weather forecasts carefully; wet granite can be slippery and unforgiving.

Allow extra time for the approach through Black Feather Canyon’s uneven terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, Free Prayer Mat feels true to grade with a sustained, physical start that tests power and balance. The challenges arise as much from managing rope positioning and rests as from the moves themselves. The final technical corner adds an engaging crux that elevates the route’s overall difficulty, making it a step above typical 5.11 climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted with well-spaced bolts requiring long slings for key no-hands rests to minimize rope drag and support recovery moments.

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Tags

smooth granite
no-hands rest
technical corner
bolt protected
tricky clipping