"Four Play offers a focused push of alpine sport climbing on Sex Wall’s rugged granite cliffs, combining clean protection with a sharp crux near the anchor. This single-pitch gem delivers a crisp dose of Southern Sierra exposure and technical interest."
Four Play unfolds on the rugged cliffs of Sex Wall, tucked within the vast expanse of Courtright Reservoir’s Southern Sierra backdrop. This single-pitch route offers a compact, focused challenge that pulls climbers into a blend of alpine exposure and sport climbing precision. Beginning at the left edge of a prominent boulder, the climb immediately engages with a clean line marked by five solid bolts, culminating in a two-bolt anchor poised atop 60 feet of vertical rock. The approach greets you with fresh mountain air and panoramic views, a reminder that the Sierra’s high country holds both serenity and tested grit.
From the first clip to the final move, Four Play combines modest technical demands with an intriguing crux that sits near the anchor—a short burst of attentiveness that rewards climbers with a satisfying finish. The rock holds a texture that encourages confident hand placements yet demands steady footing, a balanced canvas for those looking to sharpen sport climbing skills while enjoying alpine ambiance. The route’s orientation on Sex Wall means afternoon light often casts long shadows, enhancing the sense of depth and height.
For those aiming to ascend Four Play, preparation tips lean toward lightweight gear and solid footwear that can tackle granite’s often polished surfaces. Hydration is critical here—Southern Sierra’s high elevation and sun exposure can sneakily sap energy, so carrying enough water for the approach and climb is essential. Early morning starts or late afternoon sessions can help avoid the peak sun, while paying close attention to shifting weather conditions which can change rapidly in alpine zones.
The approach trail to Sex Wall involves a moderate trek from Courtright Reservoir, threading through pine groves and scrub, offering intermittent glimpses of forested slopes and glimmering water below. Climbers should expect a steady incline across uneven terrain—great for warming up but requiring cautious footing when carrying rack and packs. Expect roughly 30 minutes’ access from the nearest established trailhead, with GPS coordinates available for precise navigation.
Protection on Four Play sticks to a simple framework: five bolts spaced to maintain momentum yet allow for mindful clipping through the crux, supported by a two-bolt anchor that ensures a secure belay at the top. This setup caters well to those equipped with a standard sport rack and a strong sense of clip timing. The rock demands respect but offers reliable holds, making this a solid pick for both intermediates wanting alpine exposure and seasoned climbers looking for a touch of variety in the heart of California’s high country.
Sex Wall’s broader location near Courtright Reservoir not only supplies this route’s impressive setting but also guarantees heightened conservation and quiet away from crowded climbing hubs. The area’s vast wilderness delivers solitude punctuated by the occasional call of birds or rustle of wind through scrub and pine. This combination of natural stillness and technical climbing challenge leaves a lasting impression, especially for those who appreciate the clarity that alpine climbs bring.
Given the route’s south-facing aspect, timing your ascent for earlier or later in the day can mean a cooler, more comfortable experience with reduced glare on the rock face. Spring through early fall sees the best conditions, providing dry rock and less risk of sudden storms. Descending from the top is straightforward with a single rappel from the anchor down the climb’s line, requiring a standard 60m rope and cautious management of ropes against sharp edges.
Four Play is a straightforward yet engaging climb that rewards the prepared. Its blend of alpine setting, sport climbing style, and brief but notable crux make it an ideal choice for climbers seeking clear challenges with practical logistics, all while soaking in the energetic pulse of the Southern Sierra wilderness.
The short rappel from the two-bolt anchor requires attention to rope management, especially on the sharp granite edge. The approach involves uneven terrain, so watch footing to avoid slips, particularly when carrying gear.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and heat on the south-facing wall.
Wear footwear with sticky rubber to handle polished granite surfaces.
Bring sufficient water—hydration is key at this elevation and exposure.
Use a 60m rope for a single rappel descent to the base.
Five bolts along the route secure protection spaced for steady upward movement; a two-bolt anchor tops the climb, ideal for two climbers. Standard sport gear suffices with no need for traditional placements.
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