HomeClimbingForward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey)

Forward Never Straight: A Technical Trad Challenge at Greyrock

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
hand crack
roof moves
multi-pitch
Quartzite
small gear
trad
technical
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Forward Never Straight offers four pitches of technical trad climbing on Greyrock’s southeast face, featuring hand jams, tricky roofs, and a mix of cracks and face climbing on solid quartzite. Ideal for climbers looking for a smart 5.9 challenge near Fort Collins."

Forward Never Straight: A Technical Trad Challenge at Greyrock

Forward Never Straight, also known as Shade of Grey, threads a compelling path up the southeast face of Greyrock, just outside Fort Collins, Colorado. This four-pitch trad climb stretches roughly 600 feet and offers a grounded but engaging 5.9 experience for those ready to navigate a mix of cracks, faces, and tricky pro on quartzite stone. From the moment you step up to its base, the climb presents a distinctly purposeful start — a right-facing dihedral capped by a low roof demands careful movement and confident jamming to pull through. The sequence on the first pitch sets the tone, balancing technical hand jams with face holds and a bold move over the roof that rewards precision and cool nerves.

The climb’s character unfolds with a quiet blend of natural features and climbing variations. Pitch two lifts you straight up the face past a couple of well-placed bolts, breaking up the crack climbing with delicate moves on quartzite terrain. Exposure increases subtly here, with a slightly runout style that calls for steady focus as you seek secure gear placements. The route aims right toward a large dihedral—the signature feature of the neighboring Barfy’s Favorite route—offering a reassuring landmark and a spot to set up the belay.

Pitch three takes you around the corner, hiking up a face peppered with crack systems while passing a solitary dead tree that marks your path. The climbing angle eases on this pitch, providing a chance for some rhythm on 5.7 moves before arriving at a generous ledge shared with Barfy’s that acts as a comfortable rest zone. The final pitch mirrors the last of Barfy’s Favorite, challenging you to choose your line on the face or corner before confronting a squat roof roughly 40 feet out. Overcoming this roof requires secure jams and measured power, leading to the summit plateau where the climb concludes.

The quality of quartzite here is generally solid, but the technical nature of small gear placements, especially on the first pitch, makes a well-rounded rack essential. Standard cams up to #3 Camalot cover the protection needs, with a particular focus on smaller pieces early on. This route suits climbers who appreciate a thoughtful trad challenge that blends delicate moves with a direct line and moderate exposure.

The approach affords a quick stretch into the heart of Poudre Canyon’s rocky landscape, keeping access relatively straightforward compared to more isolated climbs. Timing your climb in spring through fall ensures dry conditions, as quartzite tends to become slick when damp. Morning ascents provide cooler temperatures and shade on the southeast face, avoiding the afternoon heat common in Colorado summers. While the route does not demand extreme endurance, pacing each pitch with attention to protection and resting spots is key to a smooth summit push.

Forward Never Straight appeals to seasoned trad climbers looking for a route that tests technical skills without requiring advanced crack expertise or sustained difficulty above 5.9. The climb’s modest star rating reflects its niche appeal – a solid ascent with memorable sections rather than an all-day thriller. For climbers planning to visit Greyrock, this line offers a practical yet rewarding option to get familiar with the area’s quartzite quality and approach style, with enough variety to engage and challenge.

Practical advice includes preparing for variable protection placements, packing gear for small cams along with mid-sized standard pieces, and minding the roof sequences that define the start and finish. Solitary tree landmarks and shared ledges with nearby routes help with navigation and belay setup. Given the proximity to Fort Collins, the route provides a balance of accessibility and quiet rock time, making it a worthwhile stop on any Colorado trad itinerary.

Climber Safety

Quartzite can get slick when damp, so avoid climbing after rain or early morning dew. The roof moves on pitch one involve committing hand jams near some trickier protection spots—protect carefully and test placements thoroughly. The exposed face on pitch two requires steady nerves and good gear to minimize runout risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Approach via established trail into Poudre Canyon for a 20-30 minute access.

Spring through fall offers best dry conditions; avoid wet quartzite to prevent slipping.

Morning climbs provide cooler temps and shade on the southeast-facing wall.

Secure small gear carefully on pitch one as placements can be subtle near the roof.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels appropriately challenging, with a crux on the first pitch's roof boulder move testing both technique and composure. Pitch two's 5.9- rating signals slightly less intense but more exposed climbing, with somewhat runout sections demanding smart gear placement. The climb eases to 5.7+ and 5.7 on the final pitches, offering breathing space but still requiring attention to movement and protection. This route compares well to other moderate trad lines in the area, though those expecting sustained difficulty should prepare for its intermittent technical bursts rather than a continuous grind.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot works well, with attention to smaller cams for the first pitch’s hand cracks and roof moves.

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Tags

hand crack
roof moves
multi-pitch
Quartzite
small gear
trad
technical