"A short but engaging single-pitch trad climb in the San Bernardino Mountains, Fornicating with the Natives challenges climbers with bouldery moves and a delicate face seam. It’s perfect for those testing trad skills in sunny, exposed California terrain."
Fornicating with the Natives is a compact, spirited trad climb tucked into the rugged contours of Gateway Rock in the San Bernardino Mountains. This single-pitch route packs a punch in just 40 feet, guiding you up a bouldery start before transitioning to clean, textured face climbing crowned by a lone bolt. As you hoist yourself onto the initial ledge, the rock’s grain offers a hands-on, tactile challenge with minimal gear placements, demanding a confident approach to pro to 1 inch. Above, the crack and face seam beckon, blending moments of friction and delicate footwork as you edge toward the bolt securing your commitment. The belay zone rewards your effort with a solid stance backed by gear, and the descent is a straightforward walk-off to climber's right, easing the transition from vertical excitement back to the mountain’s embrace. Gateway Rock’s environment complements the climb with its dry, warm Californian sun and open exposure, perfect for a brisk, focused ascent when the mountain air is crisp. A modest route by length, Fornicating with the Natives offers a satisfying mix of boulder and trad climbing that invites climbers to hone their gear placement skills and appreciate subtle rock features in a quiet section of the San Bernardino wilderness. Ideal for late winter through spring when conditions are stable and the sun angles encourage warmth on the slab. Prepare with sturdy but flexible footwear for the friction moves, and pack a standard trad rack focused on smaller nuts and cams for the protected sections. This is a route where precision and patience meet adventure—ready for anyone looking to brush up on trad techniques while enjoying a slice of California’s climbing heritage.
The initial bouldery section has sparse gear, so climbers should manage runouts carefully. Loose rock can be present near the ledge; assess placements thoroughly and avoid undercut edges. The descent path requires attention to footing, especially after a long day when fatigue sets in.
Wear sticky shoes with excellent friction for the slab moves above the ledge.
Start early in the day to avoid heated rock under the midday sun.
Pack protection focused on micro cams and small nuts to cover the gear-only section.
Descend by walking off to climber’s right—follow the established path to avoid loose rock.
Bring gear sized to 1 inch for optimal protection. A single bolt provides secure clipping near the top. Minimal placements are available on the initial bouldery ledge, so be prepared for runout before the bolt.
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