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Forgotten Passage on The Throne: A Raw Tradition Climb in St. Vrain Canyons

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
slabby terrain
sparse protection
brushy approach
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Forgotten Passage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Forgotten Passage on The Throne presents a gritty 3-pitch traditional climb that challenges with uneven rock and varied terrain. This route rewards those seeking raw, unpolished adventure with solid crack climbing and sweeping canyon views just outside Lyons, Colorado."

Forgotten Passage on The Throne: A Raw Tradition Climb in St. Vrain Canyons

Carved into the rugged cliffs of The Throne, the Forgotten Passage offers a gritty, no-frills traditional climbing experience that rewards persistence more than polish. Located on the northeast face, this route begins inside a shadowed alcove west of a prominent splitter offwidth—an imposing landmark visible from the approach. The rock here wears the scars of time and weather, its surface rough and raw, a tactile reminder that this climb demands respect both in technique and mindset.

The first pitch sets the tone with a shuffled start up a slopey ramp, passing a lone fixed pin before confronting a challenging crack system thick with coarse rock and loose flakes. The climb feels unsettled underfoot—a gritty maze where each hold asks for steady attention. The terrain leans from moderate to slabby near the ledge, where a tricky traverse invites some commitment. This section earns its 5.8 rating with caution: controlling body tension on uncertain rock is paramount, and the mental weight of exposure presses in, as one climber found, turning nerves into a tangible force.

Pitch two ascends into a shadowed dihedral through scrubby bushes clinging stubbornly to the rock’s edges. Underclinging around a modest roof adds a punch of movement variety, balancing out the lichen-crunch underfoot that saps some of the route’s grace. Despite the less-than-clean rock, this pitch rewards steady rhythm, climbing at 5.8+ difficulty, with a belay ledge that feels almost like a small refuge. From here, the summit cracks await, promising a final push to the top.

The third pitch delivers several route options, each blending hand cracks and slabs into a conclusion that feels hard-earned. The recommended line follows an obvious hand crack above the belay, inviting confident crack technique before easing onto moderate slab terrain leading to the summit block. Rated 5.9, this pitch is the crux of the climb, demanding precise gear placement and balance. At the top, remnants of old gear mark the passage of climbers before—an old nut with weathered webbing lies nearby, hinting at the route’s sparse traffic and less maintained nature.

Protection up to #3 Camalot covers most needs, though larger gear can secure wider sections at the top. Bringing extra slings and medium nuts provides safety against missing fixed pieces, especially near the summit where the anchors require reinforcement. Two ropes will ably rappel the steep backside to a large west-facing ledge or all the way to the ground, making descent straightforward but still requiring vigilance.

While Forgotten Passage isn't a polished showpiece, it offers a stripped-down slice of Colorado trad climbing where raw terrain and honest movement shape the adventure. As the only currently published route on The Throne, it’s a gateway to exploring deeper lines in the canyon, with sweeping views across forested slopes and the St. Vrain River daring you to push onward. Ideal for climbers comfortable with variable rock and looking to hone their traditional skills under a Colorado sky, this route blends practical climbing beta with the subtle thrill of soloing less-traveled paths.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and lichen-covered holds present a risk, especially on the first and second pitches. Fixed pins and old nuts should not be trusted without backup. Be mindful of the ledge quality near the belays, and prepare for a steep rappel with two ropes to avoid unexpected surprises on descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Approach can be brushy near the second pitch—wear long pants to avoid scratches.

Fixed gear at the top can be sparse or unreliable—carry extra protection for building safe anchors.

Two ropes are recommended for the rappel off the west-facing ledge or steep backside.

Try to climb in dry conditions; lichen and loose rock make wet surfaces slippery and hazardous.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on the final pitch feels fair with some tension added by slabs and crack placements that demand good technique. The earlier pitches' 5.8 and 5.8+ grades feel soft technically but gain difficulty through loose rock and exposure. Compared to other local trad routes, Forgotten Passage challenges with less polished rock and more variable conditions, requiring steady nerves and precise gear management.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot covers the majority of protection needs. Larger cams are useful on wider sections at the top pitches. It’s wise to carry a few extra slings and medium nuts to back up fixed gear especially near the anchors.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
slabby terrain
sparse protection
brushy approach