"Foreign Squaw offers a focused, single-pitch sport climb on Squaw Wall with a precise bolt pattern defining a 5.9- challenge. This route demands attention to detail and confident movement, inviting climbers to engage with solid rock and a straightforward approach near Colorado Springs."
Foreign Squaw stakes its claim on the left side of Squaw Wall in the heart of Red Rock Canyon Open Space, just outside Colorado Springs. This single-pitch sport route stretches 75 feet through a corner system that commands focus and precision. The bolt line holds the key to the climb’s proposed 5.9- rating — pushing you to commit to exact sequences and technique. Deviating right softens the challenge to a more approachable 5.8, providing an inviting option for those easing into the crux. As you ascend, the rock feels solid yet demanding, with pockets and edges that test hand placement and footwork. The sparse protection—five bolts—requires climbers to clip confidently and maintain flow, knowing that an errant move could mean a tricky hang. The anchor, once reliable, has since been removed, adding an element of caution and transforming the descent into a walk-off from the top.
The wall itself catches sunlight for much of the day, baking the rock into a warm, tactile grip that rewards precision without undue fatigue. Ambient sounds carry from distant traffic and chirps of local birds, but the mood quickly shifts into a focused, personal encounter between climber and stone. Approaching Foreign Squaw means parking near the Red Rock Canyon Open Space staging area and hiking a short trail to the base—an easy approach that leaves every ounce of energy reserved for the climb.
For climbers seeking to deepen their sport experience with a straightforward yet engaging challenge, Foreign Squaw offers a chance to sharpen technique and test composure on a route that blends practical movement with a pulse of adventure. While brief, the line invites repeat attempts, each ascent an opportunity to refine clipping rhythm and read the rock’s subtle cues. Prioritize solid sport shoes, chalk your hands liberally, and time your climb for sunlit afternoons when the warmth steadies grip without sapping strength.
With protection limited to bolts—though missing the first and anchors—you’ll want to adjust your expectations on toprope and plan your descent carefully. The area’s accessibility, combined with its no-frills style, welcomes climbers who value straightforward sport routes grounded in honest challenge and accessible wilderness. Foreign Squaw is a local classic that rewards focus and respect for rock and risk alike.
With the first bolt and anchor removed, this climb requires confident clipping and a prepared walk-off descent. Assess rock conditions carefully, and never rely on bolts that may be missing or compromised.
Stick strictly to the bolt line to maintain the intended 5.9- rating.
Avoid climbing right of the bolts if targeting the full difficulty.
Plan your descent carefully; no fixed anchors remain at the top.
Late mornings to early afternoons offer optimal rock temperature and lighting.
Five bolts ascend the corner, but note the first bolt and the two-bolt anchor have been removed since July 2014. Bring sport climbing gear and be prepared for a walk-off descent.
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