"Forbidden Fruit on Sundog Buttress offers a short but intense trad climb that demands careful gear placement and steady nerves. Perfect for climbers comfortable with marginal protection and eager to experience Yukon’s wild granite up close."
The Forbidden Fruit route on Sundog Buttress stands as a compact yet demanding test of courage and skill. At just 65 feet, this single-pitch climb offers an intense burst of technical climbing amid the rugged backdrop of Golden Canyon in the Yukon Territory. From the moment you gear up at the base, the rocky face reveals itself with stacked flakes and narrow cracks that serve as both holds and protection points—though not without their risks. The rock feels alive here, daring you forward while warning of its precarious nature through loose sections and crumbly edges.
Protection on Forbidden Fruit is sparse and uncertain. The route demands trust in marginal gear placements, primarily small to medium cams around 3 inches or less. Climbers often opt for top roping from the Sundog anchors—a safer choice given the sketchy lead conditions. As you ascend, the flakes appear to shift under pressure, reminding you to move deliberately and maintain control. The belayer’s role is just as critical: keen vigilance is needed to shield the leader from potential falling debris, a constant reminder that this climb rewards respect for the environment as much as technical ability.
This route is a raw encounter with the wilderness of northern Canada. The chilly air sharpens your focus, and the sparse vegetation clinging to the cliffs adds a touch of tenacity mirrored by the climb itself. Sundog Buttress, with its position in Golden Canyon, offers striking views of the surrounding Yukon landscape—a mix of rugged earth tones and distant peaks breaking the sky. While the climb is brief, its intensity leaves a lasting impression, pushing climbers to read the rock closely and manage risk with calm precision.
The key to enjoying Forbidden Fruit is preparation and a measured approach. Footwear with solid edging ability is essential to maintain precision on the brittle flakes. Hydration is important, though the cool northern climate reduces sweat and dehydration risks compared to warmer climbs. Early morning ascents are ideal to avoid potential thaw loosening rock as temperatures rise, and to benefit from soft lighting that heightens the texture and contours of the rock.
For any adventurer seeking a straightforward yet edgy climb with a strong dose of wilderness character, Forbidden Fruit provides an honest challenge. It’s not a climb to push beyond your comfort zone without due caution but rewards those who approach it with respect and clear-headed tactics. Whether topping out at the anchors or staying low and steady on a well-placed top rope, this route’s gritty personality invites a deep appreciation for the Yukon’s wild climbing spirit.
Loose rock and fragile protection make this climb hazardous when led; helmets for all parties are essential. Falling debris is a real danger, so belayers must position themselves cautiously and climbers should avoid dislodging holds unnecessarily.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon temperature swings that can loosen rock.
Wear shoes with excellent edging precision for the flaky holds.
Belayers should wear helmets and stay alert for falling rock.
Check anchors carefully before committing to a lead ascent.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams sizing up to 3 inches, complemented by small nuts for delicate placements. A top rope setup from Sundog anchors is strongly recommended to manage risk on this route.
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