"For Whom the Poodle Tolls delivers a rewarding 90-foot trad climb on the East Face of Hemingway Buttress, balancing accessible challenges with the raw desert experience of Joshua Tree. Its grainy rock texture and steady moves make it a solid test for 5.9 climbers wanting a memorable outing in a storied location."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Joshua Tree National Park’s Lost Horse Area, the climb For Whom the Poodle Tolls offers a straightforward yet rewarding 90-foot trad pitch that captures the park’s distinctive blend of desert grit and granite texture. Situated on the East Face Right of Hemingway Buttress, this route sits just left of the more famous Head Over Heels climb and shares space with its sibling, A Farewell to Poodles. The rock here reveals a slightly grainy surface that demands purposeful movement and confident footwork, yet the holds generally inspire trust, making it an inviting challenge for those settling into the 5.9 range.
This climb is characterized by a steady rhythm rather than explosive moves. Its modest vertical gain invites climbers to engage with a variety of features unique to Joshua Tree: jagged edges, delicate cracks, and plates that test your balance against the shifting desert light. Protection is well within the standard trad rack spectrum, though the placements reward thoughtful gear selection to ensure secure anchors on the somewhat coarse stone. While the route’s difficulty rests comfortably at 5.9, some variation in rock texture can make protection feel less straightforward, adding a gentle edge to the mental game.
The approach to Hemingway Buttress is brisk and accessible, threading through Joshua Tree’s iconic desert flora—creosote bushes and towering yuccas—under an expansive blue sky. The trail to the base is well-marked, and hikers will appreciate the crisp desert air and the warm sun above while preparing gear. Choosing the right time to climb is crucial: early morning light warms the rock without overheating the climber, and afternoon sun risks bringing a dry, harsh heat that saps energy.
Descending requires a bit of caution; after topping out, climbers must navigate a short downclimb rated roughly 5.3 around a large boulder on a gully to the climber’s left. This move demands clear route-finding and confident footwork, as the rocky terrain can be uneven and loose in spots. Plan your descent carefully, and be mindful of loose scree that could shift with each step.
For Whom the Poodle Tolls is perfect for climbers looking to push their 5.9 skill level while soaking in the wide-open expanse of Joshua Tree’s desert. Its single-pitch nature means it fits well within a half-day outing, offering enough challenge without the need for complicated logistics. Stick to your rack, watch your footwear—including sticky rubber shoes suited for rough crack systems—hydrate well, and enjoy the distinct harmony of grit and grace this route offers. It’s a solid introduction to trad climbing in one of California’s most renowned climbing playgrounds.
Watch footing on the descent gully, especially around the large boulder where loose rock can shift unexpectedly. Use deliberate foot placement during the downclimb rated 5.3 to avoid slips. The rock texture can be slightly abrasive but remains stable; still, protect your skin and gear accordingly.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon heat and get optimal rock temperature.
Bring sticky-soled shoes suited for crack climbing on gritty granite.
Hydrate thoroughly and carry extra water—desert sun can be unforgiving.
Scout the descent carefully; the downclimb involves tricky moves on loose rock.
The climb requires a standard trad rack. Placements are generally solid despite slightly grainy rock texture, rewarding cautious but confident gear choices.
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