HomeClimbingFor A Few Swidgets More

For A Few Swidgets More

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad
finger crack
hand crack
desert
single pitch
technical
sunny
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
For A Few Swidgets More
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"For A Few Swidgets More is a concentrated trad climb in Joshua Tree that blends technical fingertip liebacking with a clean, strenuous hand crack. This 60-foot single pitch rewards precise technique in a sun-drenched desert setting."

For A Few Swidgets More

For A Few Swidgets More offers climbers an engaging route that demands a blend of precision and persistence amidst the rugged backdrop of Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch trad climb stretches 60 feet along a sunlit wall that catches the morning warmth before the afternoon shadows cool the rock surface. The climb kicks off with a challenging fingertip lieback sequence, requiring a keen sense of balance and finger strength as the rock’s edges test your grip. As you ascend, this technical start loosens into a clean, strenuous hand crack that invites confident jams and powerful moves to reach the summit.

The route’s straightforward length makes it ideal for those who appreciate focused, intense climbing without a prolonged commitment. Its location within the Roadside Rocks area places it in a vibrant desert landscape — the earth beneath your feet dusty, the air dry and alive with the hum of distant cicadas. The rock itself, a coarse granite icing common to Joshua Tree, offers reliable friction but demands respect for its occasionally sharp edges.

Approaching For A Few Swidgets More is a short hike from the parking area, following a well-marked path across sandy stretches and scattered boulders. The trail’s brief nature means you’ll spend more time perched on the rock, absorbing the expansive desert views rather than trekking. Gear up with a standard rack — a set of cams and nuts will cover the protection needs, though discreet placements require careful assessment, especially near the hand crack where secure jams anchor your progress.

Rated 5.9, the climb sits comfortably for intermediate climbers but carries enough challenge in its crux moves to keep even seasoned trad climbers engaged. The fingertip lieback section sharpens technical skills while the hand crack tests stamina and body positioning. Many find the grade fair, but the crux can feel stiff if finger strength isn’t maintained. Compared to nearby routes, it stands out for its focused power sequence and balanced protection.

Joshua Tree's arid setting offers ideal climbing conditions from late fall to early spring. Morning ascents are favored here as the rock heats up quickly under the desert sun, making afternoon climbs demanding without proper hydration and sun protection. After the climb, descending is straightforward with a short walk-off back to base, avoiding any tricky rappels or exposed downclimbs.

For A Few Swidgets More may not be the most crowded climb in the park, but its blend of technical variety and desert ambiance captures the essence of Joshua Tree’s trad offerings. The climb invites you to engage fully with the rock and the environment — the dry, shifting sunlight plays on the granite’s texture, while the open skies remind you of the vast wilderness pressing in around you. For those ready to apply finger strength and trad savvy in an accessible yet demanding setting, this route delivers a memorable day under an expansive sky.

Climber Safety

Watch your hand placements—rock edges can be sharp, especially in the lieback section. Protection is straightforward but requires careful, confident placements to avoid potential runouts on the upper crack.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid the intense midday desert heat.

Bring plenty of water; the approach is short but the sun is unrelenting.

Wear finger tape to protect skin during the abrasive lieback moves.

Check gear placements carefully—the crack and lieback zones require thoughtful protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, the route feels solid but pushes climbers with a tricky crux in the fingertip lieback section. The grade matches the technical demands, with the sustained hand crack requiring steady power. For those familiar with Joshua Tree’s moderate trad climbs, this route offers a precise balance between challenge and approachability.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack with cams and nuts covers the protection; secure placements are critical at the hand crack section to ensure safe ascent. Small to medium cams fit well in finger-sized cracks, while nuts protect lieback zones.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of For A Few Swidgets More and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
finger crack
hand crack
desert
single pitch
technical
sunny