"Fontaine’s Face offers a gritty 140-foot trad climb on Sonora Pass with cautious protection needs and raw, textured rock. Expect a scrappy but rewarding ascent framed by forested slopes and mountain silence."
Fontaine’s Face stands as a rugged single-pitch trad climb that commands respect and careful attention amidst the wild expanse of Big Face, along California’s Sonora Pass Highway. Stretching 140 feet from the base to a two-bolt anchor perched just above the lip, this route offers a blend of straightforward crack climbing and delicate smearing on small edges, punctuated by jugs that provide welcome rest points. The rock's surface is rough and weathered, dotted with patches of moss and loose debris that whisper stories of recent rock fall and ongoing natural change, compelling every climber to test each hold thoroughly before committing.
This climb wears its wear and tear openly; a glue-in bolt hammered by falling rock lies midway, still reliable but suspect enough to advise caution. The protection mix demands versatility, combining small to medium traditional gear with a couple of bolts for security. The anchor at the top feels solid but is testament to the mountain’s relentless forces.
Atmospherically, Fontaine’s Face invites climbers to engage with the mountain’s raw energy. The surrounding terrain reveals dense conifers lining the approach path, while distant peaks stand as silent witnesses to your ascent. Gusts of wind through the trees send scattered pine needles swirling, and the scent of fir blends with the crisp mountain air, grounding you in this isolated wilderness.
Approaching the climb requires negotiating the rugged, uneven trail conditions of Big Face within LTA, where the path can be slick with damp debris in wet conditions. The nearby town of Sonora provides essential fuel and gear options for organizing the day, while ensuring that climbers venture well-prepared with durable footwear and layers suitable for rapidly shifting mountain weather.
Safety is a vital consideration here. Given the evidence of recent exfoliation and rockfall, helmets are non-negotiable, and every move should be measured, discerning the rock’s integrity. End-of-season climbs offer the clearest conditions when moss is less prominent, and the rock dries efficiently, reducing slip risks. Given the route’s moderate but tangible challenges, Fontaine’s Face suits confident trad climbers seeking a solid, engaging test with a practical edge—never flashy, always grounded in the mountain's honest offering.
This route has visible signs of recent rockfall and exfoliation. Many holds are mossy and may be loose. Wearing a helmet and probing each hand and foot hold carefully is essential. The glue-in bolt mid-route is damaged – approach with caution and avoid over-trusting fixed protection.
Double-check every hold for stability before weighting it due to recent rockfall.
Wear a helmet at all times to protect against loose rock.
Plan your climb in late summer or early fall to avoid mossy, slippery sections.
Approach via the Big Face Trail; it’s uneven and can get slick, so sturdy boots are a must.
Bring a rack covering small to medium cams, nuts, and a helmet. The route offers two bolts plus natural protection opportunities, but be prepared for one compromised glue-in bolt mid-route. Two-bolt anchor setup at the top calls for standard anchor building gear.
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