"Fly By challenges climbers with a technical slab traverse beneath Pinnacles National Park’s largest overhang. A single-pitch 5.9 climb that balances loose holds with solid protection and an optional 5.10c finish offers a grounded yet memorable test."
Fly By offers a grounded yet compelling introduction to trad climbing on Discovery Wall’s East Side in Pinnacles National Park. Anchored beneath the largest roof on the wall’s right half, this single-pitch, 90-foot slab climb demands careful footwork and a steady approach to loose holds. From the base, climbers face a broad slab angled beneath an imposing overhang, the rock daring you to trust its subtle features as you move leftward. This route sits just 50 feet to the left of The Swallow Crack’s easy 5.6 line, but Fly By quickly tests your nerves with a sequence that navigates both slab and vertical traverses.
Protection is a mixed bag: two bolts guard the tricky loose crux while another pair secures the climb’s exit, with an old piton tucked mid-slabs if you choose the center path. The ability to place small to medium cams along the crack on the right side adds a layer of confidence for those skilled in pro placement. Slings for the bolts and an adequate rack of standard protection rounds out the gear list. The rock requires patience; the holds often feel uncertain but move deliberately with balance rather than brute strength.
Set against the rugged backdrop of Pinnacles’ central coast, the route draws climbers looking for a technical slab challenge that's approachable yet demanding. The natural light paints the wall in shifting patterns through the day, mostly favoring late morning to early afternoon ascents when the sun lights the face without forcing harsh shadows into the cracks and pockets. The market town of Soledad lies less than an hour away, offering access to provisions and emergency supplies, though the approach through semi-arid trails commands respect from those visiting for the wildscape experience.
Approaching Fly By involves a well-trodden path through a forested stretch that gradually opens to spectacular views of volcanic spires and craggy ridges. The hike from the parking area to Discovery Wall is under a mile with moderate elevation gain, making it accessible for most climbers but still a reminder of the remote feeling Pinnacles holds. Bring plenty of water and wear shoes with solid traction—slabs can be deceptively slippery when warm.
Fly By’s grade, a solid 5.9, feels true to the rating with a pronounced crux where looseness meets line choice. The final stretch toward an optional 5.10c finish rewards those who choose to keep ascending with more challenging moves that require precision foot placement and controlled upper-body effort. Compared to nearby climbs like The Swallow Crack, Fly By leans more on subtle slabbing technique than direct crack climbing, making it a refreshing alternative for climbers who want to dial in their slab skills in a protected setting.
Safety is paramount here—loose rock demands mindfulness when clipping bolts or resting, and a solid helmet is non-negotiable. The piton, though present, should be considered back-up rather than primary protection. Descents are straightforward with a single rappel from bolts at the top, but climbers should watch sharp edges and ensure clean rigging before lowering. Seasonal winds and afternoon heat can alter conditions swiftly; planning your climb for cooler, stable weather windows enhances both safety and enjoyment.
Fly By unfolds as a brief but memorable encounter with the subtleties of slab climbing under a looming roof, where the rock's character nudges you toward balance more than power. It’s an ideal climb for those seeking a concentrated single-pitch challenge with enough technical interest to sharpen skills without overwhelming commitment. Pack your rack, bring steady feet, and prepare for a climb that flows with calm confidence amidst the rugged contours of Pinnacles’ iconic walls.
Loose rock near the crux and exit sections means a reliable helmet and careful clipping are essential. The piton on the slab is old and should only be considered back-up protection. Watch for sharp edges on the rappel anchors and ensure clean rigging before descent.
Start early to avoid high afternoon heat on the slab surface.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for maximum traction on slick slab sections.
Carry extra water; the approach is short but exposed.
Double-check helmet fit to protect against loose rock near the crux.
Two bolts protect the often loose crux and also secure the exit; an old piton sits halfway up the slab but is more a backup. Small to medium cams fit well in the off-center crack for added protection. Bring slings for bolt extensions plus a rack suited to traditional placements.
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