Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingFlight Simulator

Flight Simulator Trad Climb at Pilot Knob

Lyons, Colorado USA
trad
single-pitch
lichen-covered rock
crack climbing
tree belay
small cams
St. Vrain Canyon
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flight Simulator
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flight Simulator offers a rewarding single-pitch trad climb on lichen-streaked rock at Pilot Knob. Perfect for trad climbers honing gear placements, this 100-foot route demands focus and respect for the natural belay anchored by a large canyon tree."

Flight Simulator Trad Climb at Pilot Knob

Flight Simulator is a concise but engaging one-pitch trad route perched on the rugged walls of Pilot Knob, within the secluded stretch of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. Approaching this climb, you’ll find yourself drawn to a broad ledge crowned by a lone, sturdy tree, which serves as the belay anchor. The climb itself begins on rock flecked with lichen, a subtle greenish-gray coat that quietly reminds you of the canyon’s weathered character. Scrambling left of a pronounced roof feature known as Autopilot, your hands seek out opposing flakes where friction meets balance, negotiating the route’s modest yet precise challenges. The climb skirts clear of the Cockpit gash – a narrow fissure that beckons but must be avoided to stay on the intended line – pushing upward toward that large tree which marks the crux and the belay station.

The rock underfoot presents mixed conditions; some sections feel solid while others require cautious foot placements, given occasional friable patches. Keeping a sharp eye on holds is crucial here—this is not a route to rush. Protection is straightforward. A single rack filled with small to medium cams, bolstered by smaller stoppers, will cover all your placements. The protection placements favor smaller cams and nuts, rewarding precise gear placements with peace of mind. The crag’s remote character lends a sense of quiet focus: the canyon walls seem to lean in, quietly daring you to read the rock and move deliberately.

Pilot Knob offers a refreshing counterpoint to many nearby routes that call for longer approaches and more technical complexity. Flight Simulator’s 100 feet provide a brief but rewarding exposure, perfect for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills while basking in the rugged scenery of the St. Vrain Canyons. The descent down is straightforward; a walk-off from the ledge delivers a quick return to basecamp but keep alert for loose rock and tree roots underfoot.

Timing your climb for early spring through fall ensures comfortable temperatures and dry rock. Avoid late summer afternoons when the sun beats directly onto the face, making holds feel slick. The belay tree, though solid, has no fixed slings, so bringing your own webbing or cordelette is essential. The natural anchor adds an organic charm to this climb, connecting you directly with the canyon’s wilderness fabric.

In all, Flight Simulator offers an accessible, practical adventure that's equally suited to trad novices ready to push their gear placement skills or seasoned local climbers seeking a quick warm-up. The blend of natural features and manageable challenge makes it a standout on the quieter side of St. Vrain’s climbing portfolio.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution around friable rock sections and maintain vigilance on foot placements. The belay tree is reliable but lacks fixed slings—always extend anchors and double-check your setup. Loose rock near the ledge requires careful descent attention.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Begin just left of the lichen-covered roof called Autopilot to find the cleanest line.

Avoid the Cockpit gash to keep on the established route.

Bring extra slings to back up the belay tree, as no fixed gear remains.

Climb during cooler morning hours to keep holds grippy and avoid direct afternoon sun.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels approachable but demands solid trad fundamentals. The route’s difficulty is centered around precise gear placements on less-than-perfect rock, which can boost the mental challenge beyond a typical 5.8. Compared to nearby Pilot Knob routes, Flight Simulator sits comfortably on the easier end, making it a great introduction to the cliff’s style.

Gear Requirements

A simple rack will cover your protection needs here. Focus on small to medium cams and some small stoppers. Watch carefully for friable sections to avoid placing gear in crumbly rock. Bring personal slings as the belay tree has no fixed anchors.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Flight Simulator and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
single-pitch
lichen-covered rock
crack climbing
tree belay
small cams
St. Vrain Canyon