HomeClimbingFledgling Dihedral

Fledgling Dihedral at Falcon Spires

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
wide crack
arete finish
loose rock
beginner trad
single pitch
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fledgling Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fledgling Dihedral offers a reliable 100-foot warm-up on Falcon Spires’ southern face. This classic trad line blends wide crack jams with a straightforward arete finish — all framed in rugged Colorado foothills with careful attention needed for loose rock."

Fledgling Dihedral at Falcon Spires

Rising sharply on the southern face of Falcon Spires, the Fledgling Dihedral calls to climbers seeking a straightforward, quality trad experience just outside Colorado Springs. This crisp 100-foot route is anchored by an inviting wide dihedral crack, perfect for hands and fists to find solid jams. The climb unfolds steadily with an emphasis on technique over brute strength, culminating in a confident finish along an easy arete that rewards with a satisfying sense of completion. The rock here holds character, though it demands attention—the cliff is peppered with loose fragments and chossy sections that challenge your footing and gear placements alike. Protection tends to favor fist-sized placements and stoppers, so pack accordingly and double-check each placement for stability. The approach is direct, making this a prime choice for one-pitch trad climbers eager to sharpen crack skills without excessive commitment.

The Falcon Spires area unfolds against a backdrop of the Air Force Academy’s rugged ridges, illustrating Colorado’s blend of stark rock and expansive high plains. Every breath draws in the crisp mountain air, with occasional gusts teasing the climb’s edges. An afternoon sun paints the wall with warm hues, but the southern exposure means midday ascent can feel intense; mornings or late afternoons deliver cooler conditions. Though relatively short, the route demands vigilance with its loose rock—treat each handhold and foothold with respect, and prepare for quick gear swaps inside the dihedral crack. The key to success here lies not just in strength, but in mindful movement—every jam and step should be intentional and steady.

For climbers traveling from Colorado Springs, the Falcon Spires present an accessible adventure that blends training with stunning views of the Front Range foothills. Water and footwear choices are important; a sturdy pair of crack-friendly climbing shoes paired with layered clothing will handle the variable temperatures well. Hydration is critical given the dry air and climbing's focused effort. Overall, the Fledgling Dihedral offers a worthy goal to build confidence on traditional terrain, with enough challenges to sharpen your awareness and protectiveness on less-than-perfect rock. Whether prepping for more challenging routes or looking to top out a solid 5.9- pitch, this climb stands as a practical yet immersive introduction to Falcon Spires’ character.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and chossiness are present along the route—scrutinize all hand- and footholds as well as gear placements. Falling debris is a hazard; helmets are highly recommended. Approach is steep and uneven, so proceed carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the marked trail from the Air Force Academy parking area; expect a 15-minute scramble over stable but uneven terrain.

Wear crack-friendly climbing shoes for the jam-heavy passages inside the dihedral.

Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer cooler conditions and better grip on the southern exposure.

Be extra cautious of loose rock—test each hold and gear placement thoroughly before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9-, the Fledgling Dihedral is a solid choice for climbers seeking accessible crack climbing. The grade feels true with a crux that leans on precision jams rather than power. This route is on the softer side compared to steeper nearby climbs, making it approachable for those transitioning into traditional crack lines.

Gear Requirements

Prepare 2–3 fist-sized pieces along with stoppers to secure protection in the wide crack. The placement is straightforward but requires cautious testing due to loose rock.

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Tags

wide crack
arete finish
loose rock
beginner trad
single pitch