Adventure Collective

Flatus at Reed's Pinnacle: A Classic Trad Challenge in Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Valley, California United States
finger crack
chimney
stemming
multi-pitch
trad gear
Yosemite granite
east-facing
moderate approach
Length: 180 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Flatus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flatus is a compelling two-pitch trad climb weaving finger jams and chimneys on Reed's Pinnacle. It offers a perfect blend of technical moves and reliable protection set against Yosemite Valley’s iconic granite backdrop."

Flatus at Reed's Pinnacle: A Classic Trad Challenge in Yosemite Valley

Flatus presents a hands-on trad climbing experience that stands out in the towering granite walls of Yosemite Valley. This two-pitch favorite weaves its way up Reed's Pinnacle, taking climbers through a combination of technical finger jams, chimneys, and stemming moves that balance challenge with flow. The rock here feels alive under your hands—a series of cracks and corners that invite both experienced and adventurous climbers to engage with the natural lines carved into the granite.

The approach brings you into the Lower Merced River Canyon, where the cool river breeze contrasts with the vertical heat of the cliff face. Starting on the first pitch, you’ll find a right-leaning finger rail framed by cliffside succulents, a reminder that even in exposed climbs, nature holds its ground with quiet resilience. This pitch ends with an easy squeeze chimney before veering left on a short hand crack leading to a generous ledge. Rated 5.8, the moves are accessible but demand precise gear placements and steady footwork.

The second pitch ramps up the intensity, heading straight up a corner that demands a mix of jamming, stemming, and smearing. The granite’s texture here reveals subtle seams and edges that provide holds and protection opportunities, but the climb tests your ability to maintain balance and momentum. Near the top, the corner bends on fists before plunging into another tight squeeze that leads to a wide ledge, signaling a natural rest point and a panoramic reward. From here, the route continues with longer pitches upward, but most climbers choose to rappel back down.

Protection is straightforward but key: rack up with gear up to 4 inches to confidently protect the varying crack sizes without over-camming or feeling under-protected. The established rappel anchors conveniently allow retreat with a single 60-meter rope, making planning your descent simple and efficient.

Yosemite’s seasonal climate plays a role here—spring and fall offer crisp air and stable weather, perfect for tackling the granite’s challenges without the scorching summer heat. The climb’s eastern aspect means mornings bring sunlit warmth, while afternoons have cooling shade. Approaching early or late in the day can maximize comfort and grip.

Preparing for Flatus involves packing durable shoes capable of edging but flexible enough for chimneying moves, along with hydration for the moderate approach hike and the climb’s physical demands. The Lower Merced River Canyon provides a quiet soundtrack of flowing water daring you onward, grounding you amidst the vertical excitement.

Flatus stands as an engaging introduction to the diversity of trad climbing within Yosemite’s lower valley walls. It’s approachable enough for those refining crack and chimney techniques but maintains enough challenge to satisfy seasoned climbers looking for a classic route with clear, practical beta and reliable protection. Expect to leave with hands chalked, boots dusty, and a deeper appreciation for the character that granite cliffs like Reed's Pinnacle offer to those willing to push upward with intent and attention.

Climber Safety

Watch for tight squeeze sections in both pitches where protection placements can be tricky and the rock narrows significantly. Take care on the second pitch’s chimney where a misstep can lead to awkward slips. The rappel anchors are reliable but confirm their condition before descent, especially after weather changes.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon sun on the east-facing wall.

Bring shoes with good edging and enough flexibility for chimneying and stemming.

Plan hydration carefully, as the approach trail is moderate but offers limited water sources.

Double-check anchor setups before descending; one 60m rope rappel is sufficient if set correctly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating strikes a balance between accessible and challenging. The first pitch's 5.8 finger rail feels straightforward, but the second pitch demands more stamina and versatility with its mix of jams, stemming, and chimneying. The crux’s squeeze sections add subtle difficulty without pushing the grade into stiff territory, making it a solid choice for climbers pushing into solid 5.9 trad adventures.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad gear up to 4 inches works well here, covering finger to fist-sized cracks. The finger rail pitch allows solid gear placements between succulents, while the chimney section needs careful selections to fit tight squeezes. Carry a 60-meter rope for a clean double rappel.

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Tags

finger crack
chimney
stemming
multi-pitch
trad gear
Yosemite granite
east-facing
moderate approach