"Flared Wood challenges climbers with a slabby, right-leaning flared crack that demands precise footwork and solid jam technique. This single-pitch trad climb near Big Bear Lake offers a surprising crux and a memorable finish, perfect for those ready to sharpen their crack skills."
Flared Wood offers a compelling challenge amid the rocky outcrops of Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, a hidden gem in the San Bernardino Mountains near Big Bear Lake. This single-pitch trad climb starts on the same imposing boulder as the nearby Wood Splitter but diverges sharply by ascending the right side’s slabby flared crack rather than the left. At first glance, the route’s low angle belies its demands, but the combination of a leftward lean into the flare ups the ante, requiring precise footwork and strong jam technique. The initial crux puts climbers to the test with a tenuous smear shifting to a high step — a move that catches many off guard as the rock’s smoothness challenges grip confidence.
Once past this section, the flare asserts itself fully. The crack opens just enough to invite a thumb-down left-handed jam, which may be essential unless you uncover a subtler sequence. This move has a physical feel and demands both patience and commitment, framing the climb’s heart. Beyond the flare, the route eases into a finishing face adorned with patches of lichen and a slight overhang, echoing Wood Splitter’s concluding moves. The rock here requires steady balance and thoughtful placement, rounding out an engaging experience that blends finesse with power.
Protection-wise, bring trad gear up to 2 inches to comfortably safeguard the slabby flare—while the placements are solid, the rock’s angle and features don’t offer many larger options. The climb finishes atop the boulder, where you connect into Wood Splitter’s face sequence if you want to continue or rappel.
Approaching Flared Wood is straightforward from the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles trailhead, a short approach through chaparral and rocky terrain that sets the scene for a day of concentrated effort on granite. The openness of the surrounding area means morning or late afternoon climbs provide the best light and cooler temps, avoiding the midday sun that can feel intense on exposed rock surfaces here.
Local climbers appreciate this route for its blend of thoughtful movement and the unexpected challenge packed into a modest height. Beginners with solid crack technique will find it a rewarding step up, while more experienced hands value its subtle tricks. Don’t overlook your footwear—sticky shoes with good edging and smearing ability will make the difference on the slab section. Hydration is key, too; though the approach is short, the dry mountain air drains energy quickly.
Overall, Flared Wood stands apart not for sheer imposing height but for its quirky character and technical demands. It invites climbers to engage closely with the rock’s texture, body positioning, and mental focus, delivering an experience that stays with you long after you leave the granite behind.
Watch for slippery lichen patches on the finishing face and remain cautious with balance on the initial slab. Protection placements require careful attention, as the flared crack narrows and widens unpredictably—solid gear placement is essential for confidence.
Approach early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh midday sun on the exposed granite.
Wear climbing shoes with excellent smearing and edging performance for the initial slab moves.
Bring a trad rack with cams up to 2 inches; placements are solid but limited beyond this size.
Stay hydrated, as the dry mountain air can lead to quick fatigue even on a short climb.
Trad protection up to 2 inches is essential to secure placements along the slabby flare. Gear remains consistent with moderate sizes due to the crack’s widening but requires attention to subtle jams and face features.
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