"A crisp finger crack flowing into a left-leaning flake, Flaking Out delivers a short but enjoyable trad climb at Strawberry Wall. Perfect for trad climbers aiming to refine crack technique in a stunning alpine setting near Donner Summit."
Flaking Out offers a compact yet engaging trad climb tucked into the rugged granite faces of Strawberry Wall, right above the busy I-80 corridor near Donner Summit. This 40-foot pitch begins with a sharp finger crack that draws you into a lean left-angled flake, challenging your balance and technique as you ascend. The rock here feels alive under your fingers—the granite’s crisp edges and textured holds provide confident purchase, inviting you to move steadily upward. Just past the crack system, a well-placed bolt signals the approach to the anchors, rewarding your efforts with secure, two-bolt belay points.
Despite its concise length, this route delivers a satisfying blend of traditional climbing elements with alpine flair. The protection is straightforward—bring gear sized up to 2 inches to comfortably tackle placements around the crack and flake. While there’s a single bolt for reassurance, the climb mostly relies on solid pro placements, reinforcing the trad ethic that connects you closely with the rock.
Climbing Flaking Out feels approachable yet purposeful. It maintains a friendly 5.10a rating but leans on the softer side for this grade, making it suitable for climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills without stepping into overly technical or strenuous territory. The quality of the rock and the juggy nature of the moves keep the climb engaging rather than punitive. This route shines as an introductory alpine trad climb near the Lake Tahoe region, set within a scenic area that blends pine-scented forests with the lingering buzz of distant highway traffic.
Approaching the climb is a short affair, with a manageable walk-off descent that makes it easy to link with other routes in the Rest Stop Cliffs sector. The granite’s exposure to afternoon sun means climbing earlier in the day often provides more comfortable conditions, especially during warmer months. Hydration remains a must—though this is a shorter climb, the dry mountain air can sneak up on you.
Flaking Out’s alpine location demands respect. Weather moves quickly in this high country, and conditions on Donner Summit can shift from clear skies to sudden chills. But when the light holds and the granite grips, this climb offers a rewarding taste of trad climbing’s classic elements: precise gear placements, crack climbing technique, and the quiet satisfaction of sending a solid line on high-quality rock.
Although the climb is short and well-protected, runners should inspect gear placements carefully for any loose rock near the crack. The walk-off descent involves uneven terrain; take care to watch footing when returning, especially if descending in fading light.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the granite.
Check weather forecasts carefully—summer storms can arrive quickly here.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to handle the technical finger jams.
Hydrate well; the dry alpine air can be deceptively dehydrating.
Bring a full trad rack to 2-inch cams, plus a quickdraw for the bolt. A standard 60m rope is plenty for this 40-foot climb. The two-bolt anchor is solid for top rope or lowering.
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