"Flakin' On Your Friend offers a compact 50-foot trad climb in Glenwood Canyon, blending steady protection with a subtly tricky traverse near the top. Perfect for climbers seeking a focused 5.9- challenge with the backdrop of Colorado’s rugged canyon walls."
Flakin' On Your Friend is a compact but potent climb located on the right edge of the buzzing wall in Glenwood Canyon. This single-pitch, 50-foot trad route demands sharp focus and steady body positioning, especially as you approach the final moves. The route’s character is defined by a somewhat awkward traverse near the top, where climbers navigate delicate footwork and balance before concluding their ascent. Despite its modest length, the climb invites a measured approach — its 5.9- grade feels approachable but offers a subtle crux that tests your technique and mental composure.
The setting itself amplifies the experience. Glenwood Canyon’s towering cliffs rise dramatically around you, the canyon air cool and steady with the rustle of wind through nearby pines. Rock texture here shifts from solid holds to thin flakes that demand precise hand placements, rewarding climbers who respect route reading and controlled movement. Protection is reassuring, with roughly seven bolts interspersed to supplement traditional placements, but the transient nature of the traverse before the last bolt means you’ll want to stay attentive and deliberate.
Approach is straightforward against the backdrop of Glenwood Springs’ natural grandeur. The route sits accessible near well-marked trails, making it a convenient yet quiet pick amid the canyon’s busy crags. Time your climb to avoid the afternoon heat; an early morning start offers shade on the face and cooler temps that can improve grip. Bring shoes with solid edging ability—this route’s crux demands confident footwork on delicate edges and small flakes.
Safety is paramount here due to the unique traverse. The awkward moves position climbers off the more secure vertical line, which means your balance and gear placements are critical. While the bolts ease protection, don’t underestimate the mental focus needed to stay calm through the trickiest section. After the climb, a short walk back to the base is simple, making this a smooth, single-pitch outing that fits well into a half-day adventure.
For those looking to sharpen trad skills in a beautiful part of Colorado’s climbing landscape, Flakin' On Your Friend offers a tight, fun challenge. The combination of solid protection and a tricky traverse elevates this route beyond a straightforward 5.9-, delivering a memorable test that fits well into any climbing trip around Glenwood Springs.
The traverse near the top shifts your body off the direct line and requires steady gear placements. Focus on secure footing and test each piece of protection before committing to the moves. Watch for loose rock around the traverse area, especially after rain.
Start early to climb in cooler shade and avoid the afternoon sun.
Wear shoes with strong edging capability for delicate foot placements.
Double-check protection placements before the traverse for confidence on the moves.
Approach trails are well-marked but bring a GPS in case of low visibility.
Protection consists of about seven bolts spaced along the route to back up traditional gear placements. Expect to place smaller cams and nuts, especially around the traverse. Reliable quickdraws and slings can help manage rope drag here.
Upload your photos of Flakin' On Your Friend and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.