"Flaked Out offers two pitches of engaging crack climbing on clean granite at Isis Buttress, Lumpy Ridge’s quieter gem. Featuring textured flakes and double cracks, this 5.9- route delivers a moderate pump with straightforward protection on a classic Colorado trad climb."
Flaked Out offers a succinct yet rewarding trad climbing experience high above the Estes Park Valley, situated within the rugged edges of Lumpy Ridge’s distinguished cliffs. This two-pitch route climbs approximately 150 feet of primarily featured crack systems, starting on a series of broad, textured flakes that demand careful footwork and balance. The initial moves challenge your grip and foot placement as you employ stemming techniques within double cracks that open opportunities for secure gear placements. The route’s moderate pump is deceptive—while 5.9- suggests an accessible challenge, key sequences require precise movement and well-planned rests.
The climbing takes place on Isis Buttress, a less-crowded sector of The Book area, where vertical slabs and natural crack lines run through clean granite. The rock feels alive beneath your fingers, cold and rough, offering reliable friction as you ascend. Birds flit through the high pines surrounding the base, and the occasional breeze carries cool mountain air to ease the physical exertion.
Protection on Flaked Out is straightforward—bring a standard rack with an emphasis on cams that fit the varying widths of the double cracks. The anchors at the first belay are solid slings around flakes on the left, providing a reassuring stopping point whether you choose to return via rappel or continue onward along Sport Pages. Careful gear placements are crucial here; while the cracks welcome protection, inconsistent widths demand a keen eye.
Access to the base is manageable via a well-marked approach trail through Lumpy Ridge, passing under soaring granite walls framed by sturdy pine and offering views into Estes Park Valley and beyond. Hikers report the trail to be moderate with sections of loose rock, so dependable footwear and a steady pace are important. The area sees the best climbing conditions from late spring through early fall when the granite dries quickly after morning dew and afternoon thunderstorms remain infrequent.
Descending involves either a straightforward rappel from solid gear at the first belay station or retracing your steps down easier terrain toward the approach trail, depending on your comfort and group setup. Awareness of loose rock above the belay stations should be maintained, and standard helmet use is advised.
Flaked Out stands as a solid 5.9- offering classic granite crack climbing with a local feel, making it an ideal choice for trad climbers seeking a brief but satisfying day session within the breathtaking landscape of the Estes Park Valley and Lumpy Ridge. It balances challenge and accessibility, inspiring confidence while rewarding technical precision.
Note the potential for loose rock near the belay stations and above flakes—helmets are strongly recommended. Be cautious during descent as trail sections can be slippery after rain, especially on loose gravel.
Wear shoes with good edge support for the technical stemming sections.
Start early to avoid afternoon clouds common in summer months.
Bring a helmet to protect against loose debris near the belay stations.
Plan for a rappel or walk-off descent depending on party comfort and gear.
A standard trad rack with a focus on cams suitable for a range of crack widths will cover the placements here. Fixed slings anchor the belay on solid flake formations.
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