HomeClimbingFlake Right

Flake Right Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
roof
medium cams
single pitch
crack climbing
bolt protected
Boulder Canyon
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flake Right
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flake Right is a focused trad climb in Boulder Canyon, offering a one-pitch route with a dynamic roof section and reliable protection. This accessible line combines classic crack climbing with strategic gear placements, making it a rewarding climb for trad enthusiasts of varying experience."

Flake Right Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon

Set against the dramatic backdrop of Boulder Canyon, Flake Right offers a spirited introduction to traditional climbing with just enough technical challenge to keep the experience engaging without overwhelming. The route starts a short distance to the right of the well-known Philadelphia Flyer, immediately presenting climbers with a line that demands precision and calm. As you begin your ascent, the rock feels alive beneath your hands—textured, solid, and interspersed with inviting holds that encourage smooth, controlled moves.

Right away, you’ll clip the first bolt, a reassuring security point that sets the tone for this moderately challenging pitch. From here, the climb unfolds through a series of moves that push you into a rhythm of balance and reach. The transition under the roof is the defining moment, requiring a confident clip of the second bolt before powering through to the third. This section tests your technique without forcing brute strength, coaxing you through a sequence of dynamic, thoughtful motions.

Beyond the roof, the crack beckons—a natural feature that offers reliable placements for medium-sized gear and provides a satisfying tactile experience as you lock fingers and toes into its contours. The final stretch leads to an anchor that rewards your efforts with the quiet satisfaction of a well-earned send amid Boulder’s iconic granite.

Flake Right’s appeal lies not just in its climbing but also in its setting. Boulder Canyon’s soaring walls and cool breezes create an atmosphere that invites focus and immersion. While relatively short, the route demands respect for footwork and gear placement, making it an excellent option for trad climbers looking to sharpen their skills in a stunning but accessible environment.

When preparing for Flake Right, climbers should brace for a brief approach that threads through rocky terrain, requiring solid footwear for stability. A rack that includes medium cams and a quickdraw or two will cover protection needs—three bolts intermixed with natural placements keep the route intuitive to protect without becoming gear-heavy. Timing your climb during the morning or late afternoon ensures comfortable temperatures and favorable lighting, especially because the wall catches sun at midday, which can make for hot, sweaty climbing on warmer days.

In essence, Flake Right is a hands-on climb that balances playful movement with practical rigging, set in one of Colorado’s most treasured climbing areas. It’s a route that welcomes those eager to improve their trad skills while soaking in the brisk mountain air and stunning canyon views.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally reliable, the spacing between bolts requires careful gear placement to avoid long falls, especially under the roof. Rock quality is solid but stay alert for loose flakes near the crack. Avoid climbing when wet, as moisture can make holds slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb about 15 feet right of Philadelphia Flyer to find the correct line.

Clipping bolts early on each section eases runouts, especially near the roof.

Morning or late afternoon offers cooler, more comfortable climbing temperatures.

Wear sturdy approach shoes for the uneven trail leading to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Flake Right sits at the approachable edge for trad climbers ready to push into more technical movement. The grade feels true to its difficulty, with the roof section serving as the crux that demands solid technique and composure. Compared to nearby routes like Philadelphia Flyer, it offers slightly more sustained moves but remains accessible without excessive commitment.

Gear Requirements

Flake Right demands a modest trad rack—three bolts spaced along the route supplement placements for medium-sized cams. Bringing a set of cams in the medium range alongside standard trad draws will ensure confident protection to the anchor.

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Tags

roof
medium cams
single pitch
crack climbing
bolt protected
Boulder Canyon