HomeClimbingFlake of Fire

Flake of Fire: A Bracing Challenge in Bell Canyon

Angwin, California United States
offwidth
flake
large cam placements
PG13
California sport
short pitch
loose face
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flake of Fire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flake of Fire is a focused 40-foot climb in Bell Canyon combining a loose face, powerful lieback moves, and a challenging offwidth crack finish. It offers an intriguing mix of clipped bolts and critical gear placements with a unique anchor situation requiring careful planning."

Flake of Fire: A Bracing Challenge in Bell Canyon

Flake of Fire stands as a compact yet stirring test for climbers seeking a blend of varied moves and subtle technical demands, perched in the diverse terrain of Bell Canyon in Northern California. This single-pitch route stretches about 40 feet, delivering a climb that threads together loose, gripping face sections with a demanding offwidth crack finish. Your hands will feel the character of the rock as you lean into the left-lying lieback beneath the large, protruding flake—an element that commands respect for its quirks and the precision it requires. Transitioning into the offwidth invites a different kind of effort, asking you to steady your body and lock in on placements with larger cams, particularly between 2-3 inches, to safeguard your ascent.

The route's 5.9 PG13 rating suggests a climb that balances approachable challenges with spots where attentiveness to protection is crucial. Unlike more polished sport climbs, the bolt line here is short, supported by three bolts before you need to place a sizable cam in the offwidth section. This mix means going beyond simply clipping bolts, requiring climbers to be confident with larger gear placements and ready for some fiddly protection work. Anchors prove to be the trickiest part of this climb. The double-bolt anchor that one might be drawn to on the block edge is unreliable at best; its potential to come loose under tension demands you avoid weighting it. Instead, the recommended plan is to continue upward to small trees at the top, which serve as belay stations and rappel points. These natural anchors provide a safer and more stable finish, though they require familiarity with setting up tree-based anchors and efficient rope management.

Approaching Flake of Fire, you enter a rugged wine country setting within the greater San Francisco Bay Area, with the blend of open, sunlit rock faces and close-by shaded pockets under forest cover bringing a dynamic feel to the climb’s micro-environment. The approach itself is straightforward but benefits from sturdy shoes built for light scrambling and dirt trails. The route’s modest length makes it a perfect choice for spring or fall days when temperatures are cool but not biting—summer sun can heat the exposed rock quickly, so early morning or late afternoon ascents are your best bet to stay comfortable.

For climbers eyeballing this route, bringing a rack that includes a range of cams up to 3 inches is essential, plus standard sport climbing draws for the bolts. Expect a tactile experience that blends sport climbing’s clipped security with the self-reliance of placing larger gear where bolts end. The climb’s limestone faces push you to read the rock carefully, feeling edges and seams where loosening might occur—and this relative sparseness of fixed gear elevates both the physical and mental engagement.

In a broader context, Bell Canyon sits within an extensive stretch of California's climbing venues that offer diverse rock types and route styles. It is a lesser-traveled spot compared to some of the more popular Bay Area crags, rewarding those who seek a quieter, more focused climb. The outlook from the upper sections, with glimpses of green valleys below and distant rolling hills, reinforces this as a climb where the environment both challenges and invites you.

Plan your climb to avoid peak heat, take care with anchor choices, and expect to move with both skill and patience on this route. The Flake of Fire is a modest but memorable pitch that stands out for those willing to respect its quirks and prepare accordingly.

Climber Safety

The double-bolt anchor on the block’s edge is unreliable and may fail under load. Avoid weighting this anchor entirely. Always plan to belay and rappel from the small trees above to prevent dangerous falls. Additionally, the face can be somewhat loose—check your holds carefully and move deliberately.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Bring a cam rack that includes sizes up to 3 inches for the offwidth crack.

Avoid weighting the double-bolt anchor on the block—use trees above for belaying and rappelling.

Start early or late in the day to avoid the hot sun heating the exposed rock.

Use sturdy approach shoes; the trail is simple but includes some loose dirt and scrambling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating paired with a PG13 tag indicates that while the climbing moves fall into a moderate difficulty range, protection beyond bolts is essential and slightly runout. The crux lies in mastering the offwidth with proper cam placement. Compared to nearby climbs, it carries a bit more commitment and requires a cautious mindset rather than pure technical difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Climb protected by three bolts with a critical placement of a large 2-3 inch cam in the offwidth portion. Reliable anchors are not present on the block; avoid weighting the double-bolt anchor and instead belay from small trees at the top for safety and rappel.

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Tags

offwidth
flake
large cam placements
PG13
California sport
short pitch
loose face