HomeClimbingFive Minutes in Hell

Five Minutes in Hell

Banff, Alberta Canada
powerful start
bouldery crux
short route
steep face
sharp holds
Length: 15 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Five Minutes in Hell
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Five Minutes in Hell is a swift, intense sport climb in Cougar Canyon that tests your finger strength and precision on a steep, demanding face. At just 15 feet, it packs a challenging boulder problem that climbers won’t soon forget."

Five Minutes in Hell

Five Minutes in Hell catches your attention immediately with its sharp challenge and brief but intense climb. Located in the heart of Cougar Canyon’s Bow Valley, this short sport route demands precision and power right from the start. The approach begins with a cautious stick clip to bypass the initial, unforgiving holds—a move that sets the tone for what’s to come. Once past this crux, you’re on a steep face textured by sharp edges and sloping crimps that test finger strength and mental focus. This is no casual ascent; the wall seems to press against you, daring you to commit to each move. The bouldering intensity packed into these 15 feet offers a condensed but satisfying burst of adrenaline.

The setting embraces you with the quiet energy of the Canadian Rockies just beyond the rock’s edge, where a cool mountain breeze brushes the skin and the distant scent of pine pulses through the air. Despite its brevity, the route’s difficulty shines, rewarding those prepared with a sharp mixture of physical effort and mental grit. This climb is perfect for experienced sport climbers who relish technical sequences and steep, physical moves.

Protection is straightforward—two bolts guard the pitch, and a stick clip is essential to avoid a dangerous fall off the notoriously slippery starting holds. The rock demands clean and trustworthy gear placement, as it focuses entirely on the strength and technique of the climber. While it’s a short route, don’t underestimate its power-packed crux that makes it a benchmark 5.11c/d challenge for this area.

Access to Five Minutes in Hell is simple thanks to the developed Cougar Canyon climbing area, located a short drive from Banff, Alberta. The walk to the base is light and well-marked, allowing plenty of time to focus on planning your climb and conserving energy. Since the wall faces a mostly eastern direction, early morning or late afternoon climbs offer cooler temperatures, which help keep skin tensions at bay on the sharper holds. Summer and early fall provide the most consistent conditions here, avoiding any winter dampness that can make the rock slick.

From seasoned climbers seeking a quick test of their power to visitors craving a glimpse of Canadian Rockies climbing culture, Five Minutes in Hell stands out as a demanding, punchy route that leaves climbers with a sense of accomplishment in nothing more than a brief session. Whether it’s your warm-up or a focused project, it’s a route that respects your skills and pushes just enough to keep you honest.

Climber Safety

Stick clipping is essential here; the bad holds off the ground can lead to hazardous falls if you try to clip on the fly. Also, be cautious of loose rock near the base and wear a helmet.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length15 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip to avoid risky falls off the tricky starting holds.

Climb in cooler parts of the day to maintain grip on sharp, sloping edges.

Short approach from the parking area makes it easy to warm up nearby before trying this route.

Watch for loose rock around the base; a quick sweep before climbing improves safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11c/d
Quality
Consensus:This 5.11c/d feels stiff, with a powerful crux right off the bat. The grade is consistent with other short but intense climbs in Cougar Canyon but the first moves are especially demanding and require solid finger strength and precise footwork.

Gear Requirements

Bring a stick clip to safely clip the first bolt above the challenging start. Two bolts protect the route, making quickdraws essential for smooth clipping on the steep face.

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Tags

powerful start
bouldery crux
short route
steep face
sharp holds