HomeClimbingFive Fingers

Five Fingers: A Fresh Trad Challenge on Newfoundland's Main Face

St. John's, Canada
hand crack
bolt anchor
trad
single-pitch
granite
coastal climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Five Fingers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Five Fingers introduces a clean, well-protected trad climb on Newfoundland’s Main Face. With a recently added bolt anchor and a solid hand crack finish, it’s perfect for those ready to explore fresh lines beyond the classics."

Five Fingers: A Fresh Trad Challenge on Newfoundland's Main Face

Five Fingers offers climbers a fresh taste of adventure on Newfoundland’s rugged Avalon Peninsula, inviting those who’ve mastered the classics at Main Face to push into a less-traveled line with solid protection and a rewarding finish. Recently cleaned and bolstered with a couple of fixed bolts—a starter bolt and a secure anchor—this 60-foot, single-pitch route blends approachable bouldering moves with a distinctive hand crack that defines the climb’s character.

From the base, the rock demands attention: rough but reliable Flatrock granite that challenges your footwork as much as your grip. Start just left of the obvious corner, where substantial holds give you a confident launch up to the first bolt protecting the initial section. This short bouldery crux offers a satisfying grind, warming your muscles without exhausting your strength.

Once past the bolt, the route shifts into a corner reminiscent of classic Newfoundland fingers but with its own sharp, jagged identity. The corner yields to smart climbers who trust their feet on irregular edges and finger tips on micro-features. As you top out onto the ledge, a jagged hand crack invites a final push—this crack is the spine of the climb, demanding steady technique, clean placements, and a steady pace to reach the summit.

Protection on Five Fingers suits trad enthusiasts: a standard rack to 3 inches will suffice, with good pro placements available throughout. The addition of fixed bolts relieves some anxiety in the initial zone but leaves the rest of the climb open for thoughtful gear placement. The rappel anchor consists of two bolts, making descent straightforward and secure after savouring the views and the quiet solitude above Avalon’s coastline.

The approach to Main Face is direct, with well-marked access trails cutting through hardy coastal vegetation. The terrain is generally moderate, but layers and footwear tailored to granite grip are essential—wet rock can become slick, especially during overcast or damp days common to this island. Timing your climb during drier seasons maximizes your chances for clean rock and pleasant weather.

Five Fingers occupies a unique niche on Newfoundland's climbing map: approachable for intermediate trad leaders yet with enough character to engage more experienced adventurers seeking a fresh challenge. The crack technique and hand-jam sequences reward patience and precision, and the compact nature of the route makes it an ideal option for an afternoon climb after sampling some of Main Face’s more established classics.

Climber Safety

The climb’s granite can become deceptively slick when wet, and the fixed bolts protect only the start and descent. Beyond these, gear placements require experience to ensure safety in the jagged hand crack section. Check rappel anchors carefully, and be prepared for occasional loose rock near the ledge.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is well-marked but rocky; sturdy hiking shoes recommended.

Check the weather and avoid climbing after rain to prevent slippery holds.

Use the fixed bolt at the start to set a confident pace before gear placements.

Double-check the two-bolt rappel anchor for security before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Five Fingers offers a balanced challenge that feels fair but engaging. The initial bolt aids confidence through a short bouldery section, while the hand crack near the top introduces more technical jamming that can test endurance. Compared to other routes on Main Face, it leans into trad fundamentals without pushing into hard territory, making it a reliable next step.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 3 inches for solid protection throughout the climb. Two fixed bolts protect the start and anchor rappel, but the hand crack demands careful gear placement with cams and nuts.

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Tags

hand crack
bolt anchor
trad
single-pitch
granite
coastal climbing