"Fists of Fury stood as a fierce test of trad climbing skill in Joshua Tree’s Gunsmoke Area, combining tight fist cracks and squeeze chimneys into a powerful, technical single pitch. Though no longer climbable, it remains a vivid example of the mental and physical demands found on desert crack routes."
Fists of Fury marked a bold challenge in Joshua Tree’s rugged Gunsmoke Area, perched within the Barker Dam vicinity—a space known for its stark desert beauty and climbing routes etched into weathered granite faces. Though this route no longer exists due to a significant rockfall in 2003, its legacy remains a testament to technical crack climbing that challenged climbers with a demanding fist crack right off the deck. The climb began with a punchy, tight fist-sized crack slicing through a short roof, immediately requiring a mix of power and technique. Beyond this initial barricade, climbers entered a squeezing chimney that demanded both patience and precision to ascend. What appeared to be an intimidating offwidth flare around the roof’s lip was made more manageable thanks to a crucial internal hold, the kind you’re grateful for when your muscles start to protest.
Protection on Fists of Fury was notably tricky higher up. While the initial moves up to the roof were secured with gear ranging from 2.5 to 5 inches in size, the chimney section above introduced a challenge for placing adequate protection — best suited for larger cams like #4 big bros, though options remained limited. This created an uneasy balance between the route’s easier physical movements beyond the roof and the mental game involved in trusting less reliable gear placements. Descending involved lowering off from a gear anchor positioned in a low angle chimney slightly to the right of the route’s topout. This descent added a final reminder of Joshua Tree’s distinctive terrain, where route-finding and understanding the rock can be just as important as climbing skill.
The route’s brief but potent length of 40 feet packed intense chimney and crack climbing into a single pitch. Climbers faced an exposed environment typical of Joshua Tree—dry desert air warming the granite, with occasional breezes whispering through sagebrush. The approach to Gunsmoke and Barker Dam offered explorers the chance to traverse classic desert landscapes marked by joshua trees and vast open skies.
Though no longer climbable, Fists of Fury’s design reveals the kind of technical trad climbing that has given Joshua Tree its celebrated reputation. It demanded gear proficiency, mental toughness, and the ability to move confidently inside tight spaces. Aspiring climbers tackling other routes in the area will benefit from understanding its protection demands and movement style.
When planning trips to Joshua Tree’s trad climbs, bring a robust rack emphasizing larger cams and prepare for the desert’s temperature swings. Morning starts are ideal to avoid midday heat and to catch granite that’s still cool to the touch. Careful route planning and awareness of recent rock conditions remain vital for safety in this wilderness. The legacy of Fists of Fury whispers through the cracks and chimneys still present in the park, a challenge for those who crave the straightforward grit and focused approach of traditional crack climbing.
Rockfall in 2003 removed this climb, so the area requires caution and route condition awareness. Protection above the roof can be sparse and difficult to place, so confidence in gear placement and chimney technique is essential for safety.
Start early to beat the desert heat and keep granite cool.
Focus on fist and chimney crack technique; offwidth skills help with the roof section.
Bring a rack with cams from 2.5 inches up to #4 big bros for protection variety.
Double-check recent rock conditions—Fists of Fury no longer exists, but nearby routes can have loose rock.
Fists sized cams up to large #4 big bros were critical, with protection crucially placed low in the fist crack, then sparse but spot-on inside the chimney higher up.
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