"Fistful Of Steel delivers a sharp, technical 50-foot trad climb on Pigeon Cliff’s West Wall, combining precise gear placements with a demanding crux above a chockstone. Ideal for climbers looking to refine their 5.10a skills in a rugged, quiet corner of Northeast California."
Fistful Of Steel offers a sharp, focused adventure for trad climbers seeking a single-pitch 5.10a challenge in Northeast California’s rugged Pigeon Cliff. Located on the West Wall, this climb demands both strategic placements and a keen eye on rock quality. The route begins with a blocky, tightening crack that swiftly widens as you ascend, requiring a blend of hand jams and finger locks. Early on, the rock presents some loose sections over the first 20 feet—a legacy of the route’s first ascent that prompted the addition of two bolts to bolster safety. These bolts are thoughtfully positioned to discourage risky gear placements behind hollow blocks and to provide dependable protection through the less stable start.
Once past this tricky lower portion, the route steadies into solid stone, allowing confident gear placements up to 3 inches. As you continue, your focus sharpens toward the crux: a powerful move around a chockstone that pivots you onto a modest ledge perched near the top of the pitch. This section tests your technique and commitment, rewarding you with a satisfying position from which to clip the anchors.
The setting amplifies the experience, with the West Wall catching the faint morning light while the surrounding high-desert landscape stretches out beneath your feet. The climb’s exposure is enough to awaken your senses without overwhelming, making it approachable for climbers ready to push into 5.10 territory. After the climb, a swift rappel down the fixed anchors returns you to the base, ready to relive the sequences or explore nearby lines within the expansive Pigeon Cliff area.
Planning this climb involves a practical approach: sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will aid your jams and stemming, while a well-rounded rack covering small to medium cams and nuts is essential for protecting the route’s more dependable cracks. An extra quickdraw helps clip the bolts cleanly without hesitation. Given the unpredictable rock quality low on the route, mindfulness on each move and placement keeps the ascent smooth and secure.
Accessible via a moderate approach trail from the nearest access road, this climb lends itself well to early starts to avoid afternoon sun and maximize foothold friction. The semi-arid environment ensures dry conditions for most of the year, but checking seasonal weather trends and rockfall reports is always wise before heading out. With its blend of physical challenge and nuanced gear tactics, Fistful Of Steel makes an excellent focal point for a day of concentrated trad climbing in one of California’s lesser-known cliff systems.
Exercise caution in the first 20 feet due to suspect rock and hollow blocks. Rely on the two fixed bolts placed for safety and avoid placing gear where the rock feels loose. Wear a helmet, especially for this section, and double-check anchor stability before descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and improve friction on holds.
Inspect gear placements carefully in the first 20 feet due to suspect rock.
Bring a clean slate of cams and nuts, as protection relies heavily on good placements above the initial bolts.
Plan a controlled rappel down fixed anchors; ensure your gear is ready for a 50-foot single pitch.
Bring standard trad rack to 3-inch cams, nuts of various sizes, and two quickdraws to clip the bolts protecting the lower section. Use sticky climbing shoes to maximize friction on blocky holds. Rap anchors are fixed at the top for a straightforward descent.
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