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Fishstick Buttress Trad Climb at Golden Trout Crag

Lone Pine, California United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
5.8 R
alpine climbing
offwidth
finger crack
exposed
slab climbing
Sierra Nevada
Length: 750 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Fishstick Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fishstick Buttress offers 750 feet of varied trad climbing on the northeast face of Golden Trout Crag. Its mix of flaring cracks, finger jams, and offwidths challenges climbers to balance technical skill with protection savvy in a remote Sierra wilderness setting."

Fishstick Buttress Trad Climb at Golden Trout Crag

Fishstick Buttress stands as a bold challenge on the northeast face of Golden Trout Crag, a rugged granite outcrop that pushes climbers into a vibrant alpine setting east of the Sierra. This multi-pitch trad climb stretches over 750 feet and threads five pitches of varied crack systems and slab climbing. The route unfolds with an honest 5.8R rating, requiring steady protection judgment and a confident approach to occasional sections with runout exposure. From the first pitch’s committing moves off flaring cracks to a sequence of finger cracks and offwidths higher on the buttress, the climb demands both technical skill and mental focus. The rock, while solid for the most part, has areas where caution is essential; small gear placements dominate the protection strategy, with an emphasis on hybrid Aliens and a rack that extends to #4 Camalots.

The approach delivers a satisfying transition from forested trails through stands of ponderosa and yellow pine to broken slabs that herald the base of this striking buttress. Climbers will find the route start about twenty feet left of a line of overlapping roofs, marked by a subtle left-facing corner that launches the first pitch. The early crack climbing offers a sensory immersion in the granite — feel the texture beneath your fingers and spot rounded knobs peeking from cracks. As you ascend, the wall’s character shifts from tight cracks to steeper hand and offwidth sections, with exposure intensifying around airy ledges.

Pitch two showcases some of the route’s most compelling climbing, a steep finger crack weaving through the open face, demanding technical placements while pushing the climber’s balance and footwork. The crack’s vegetated borders hint at the wilderness setting, reminding you that this is a climb lived-in by nature’s slow evolution. Subsequent pitches carry you through a sequence of left-facing corners and bloc-like fins, each presenting its own mix of friction slabs and crack climbing. The upper pitches reward with views over the nearby meadow and the crag’s remote surroundings, a quiet reminder of the alpine solitude encircling Golden Trout Crag.

Downclimbing is not an option here—once at the summit, a scramble through easy, mixed class 3 and 4 terrain leads you back toward the woods, but heed caution on the descent. The forested trail requires deliberate route finding to avoid cliffed-out sections; a northward traverse through the trees leads safely back to open meadow below. Timing your climb during the late spring to early fall window ensures drier conditions on the slabs and less risk of snow lingering on the approach. A 60-meter rope is essential for managing the pitches and rappelling sections, with slings and locking biners recommended for building reliable anchors.

Fishstick Buttress is not a climb for the faint-hearted, but rewards those ready to engage with its alpine environment and the variety of crack climbing it delivers. The blend of technical challenge, natural beauty, and logistical demands crafts an adventure that is as much about thoughtful planning as it is climbing prowess. Hydration and steady footwear suited for both slabs and offwidths will serve you well. Above all, prepare for an alpine rock climb that speaks to those who enjoy routes with character, exposure, and a touch of rugged Sierra edge.

Climber Safety

Watch for marginal rock quality in some flakes and knobs; placements may be less secure than expected. The descent requires careful navigation through forested terrain to avoid cliffed-out areas. Carry a detailed topo and be prepared for variable protection spots.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length750 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed granite slabs.

Use sticky climbing shoes for friction sections and carry gloves for offwidth moves.

Double-check gear placements on flaring cracks—they can be tricky and require patience.

On descent, traverse north through woods carefully to avoid cliffed-out dropoffs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating highlights a route that, while nominally moderate, features sections warranting respect due to runout and tricky protection placements. The roof moves and face transitions raise the sustained nature of the climb, and the crux finger crack pitch can feel harder than the grade suggests. Compared to other nearby Sierra alpine climbs, Fishstick demands heightened attention to gear and patience on gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with a focus on small to medium pro including hybrid Aliens and nuts, Camalots up to #4. Six slings with biners, quickdraws, and a 60-meter rope are essential. Bring cordelette and locking carabiners for building solid anchors.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
5.8 R
alpine climbing
offwidth
finger crack
exposed
slab climbing
Sierra Nevada