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Fishboner at Fisherman's Buttress East Face

Big Bear Lake, California United States
finger crack
arete
single pitch
trad
bolted anchor
exposed
south facing
dry granite
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fishboner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fishboner cuts a sharp line on Fisherman's Buttress' east face, linking a technical hand crack to a bold arete. This concise, 40-foot trad pitch tests your crack skills and balance with well-protected moves just outside Big Bear Lake."

Fishboner at Fisherman's Buttress East Face

Fishboner is a sharp, focused trad climb that threads through the east face of Fisherman's Buttress, offering an immediate test of finger cracks and arete moves. Located in the rugged San Bernardino Mountains near Big Bear Lake, this route delivers 40 feet of climbing that demands both finesse and commitment. From the first juggy holds in the crack system, climbers face a short, technical sequence before veering left toward the distinctive Fishbone arete—a clean, exposed edge that challenges balance and technique.

The climb begins with a sustained hand crack that invites you to feel the texture of the granite as you groove upward. The rock here is solid and flint-like, refusing to give up easy holds but rewarding careful jams and precise footwork. Just before meeting the second bolt of the adjacent route, the path angles left toward the arete, where a few well-placed bolts offer security alongside traditional gear placements. Protection ranges up to 2 inches, requiring a versatile rack that accommodates smaller cams while still being prepared for those in-between placements.

This single-pitch route moves quickly but demands sharp focus, especially as you transition from crack to face climbing on the arete. The exposure is real but manageable, creating a thrilling sense of connection with the mountain. The approach is straightforward, traversing a lightly forested slope that whistles with the occasional pine needle breeze and the distant rustle of wildlife starting their day or settling in for the evening.

Timing your ascent for the morning or late afternoon is ideal to avoid the midday sun which can make this southern-facing wall feel unrelenting in summer heat. The rock cools and becomes more comfortable after the sun moves around the ridge, adding another layer of planning for climbers who want to maximize grip and minimize sweat.

While the route's 5.9 rating sits at a solid intermediate level, expect a slightly stiff crux on the arete that pushes your balance and foot precision. It's a perfect climb for those stepping up from easier cracks looking to test a bit more exposure and technical face climbing in one concise, rewarding pitch. The descent is uncomplicated, with easy downclimbing or simple rappel off fixed anchors, making it accessible for climbers with modest route-finding skills.

Packing hydration and sun protection is recommended due to the exposed approach and southern sun aspect. Footwear with sticky rubber and the ability to smear on quartz-rich granite will give climbers the best edge. This route exemplifies the San Bernardino climbing character: rugged, honest, and tightly packed with moves that engage both mind and body.

For anyone passing through the Big Bear Lake area and seeking a short, engaging trad climb with just enough challenge and exposure to sharpen skills, Fishboner is an excellent choice. Its blend of crack and face elements, bolted protection integration, and approachable location reinforce why this wall remains a favorite among locals who prefer a straightforward line amid stunning mountain scenery.

Climber Safety

Although bolts provide security, gear must be thoughtfully placed to manage fall potential. The rock is solid but the exposure on the arete can rattle those unused to ledges with significant air beneath. Approach with caution during hot weather to prevent overheating and ensure footwear has adequate grip on the smooth granite.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the harsh midday sun on the south-facing wall.

Use sticky rubber shoes to handle the quartz-rich granite's subtle smears and edges.

Carry hydration as the approach offers little shade and can dry you out quickly.

Be prepared to place precise gear in varied crack widths with moderate spacing between bolts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Fishboner presents a somewhat stiff challenge, especially transitioning from the crack to the arete. The crux requires delicate footwork and balanced body positioning, making it feel more sustained than a typical soft 5.9. In comparison to other San Bernardino trad routes, it’s approachable but demands neat gear placements and confidence on exposed edges.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack including cams ranging from small to 2 inches, complemented by a few quickdraws to clip the four bolts along the route. Anchors are fixed and reliable at the top.

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Tags

finger crack
arete
single pitch
trad
bolted anchor
exposed
south facing
dry granite