"Fish Spine is a three-pitch trad climb that offers a mix of accessible crack climbing and exposed arete moves on solid granite. Its moderate 5.9- difficulty, combined with scenic views around Sherman Pass, makes it an inviting step for trad climbers seeking a taste of Sierra granite with a touch of wilderness."
Fish Spine offers an authentic taste of traditional climbing in the rugged Southern Sierra region, just off the beaten path near Sherman Pass. Beginning beneath the shelter of a solitary pine, this 250-foot route unfolds over three pitches that balance accessible moves with subtle challenges. The climb starts to the right of a modest roof, following small cracks rated 5.6 that pass a scrappy pine rooted midway, leading you to a comfortable ledge. From here, the terrain eases leftwards, ascending toward a two-bolt anchor tucked below a subtle roof and just beneath the steep arete.
The heart of Fish Spine lies on pitch two, where the route shifts to a slightly more technical sequence. Climbers clip a bolt on the sharp arete, ascending with cautious protection from small cams, presenting a momentary edge of exposure that tests focus and steady hands. The arete itself feels alive under your grip, jutting precipitously with crisp edges that dare you forward. The pitch ends at a two-bolt anchor positioned at this narrow rampart’s crest — a short but memorable section that pushes you to absorb both the physical challenge and the quiet wilderness around.
The final pitch ventures upward with sparse protection opportunities, requiring careful gear placement and steady movement. Belaying behind a large rock offers security before the descent, which involves a mix of walk-off and some light fifth-class downclimbing to the north. This exit needs attention to footing, rewarding those who prepare with an effortless retreat after the climb’s measured demands.
Approach to Fish Spine is straightforward for seasoned climbers comfortable with moderate backcountry navigation, leading through forested slopes and granite outcrops rich with Sierra character. The route’s 5.9- rating feels slightly soft overall, with the crux on the second pitch raising the engagement level. This classic is an excellent choice for trad climbers looking to blend moderate difficulty with a taste of wilderness climbing, balancing thrills with satisfying protection opportunities.
Keep in mind that trad gear is essential for pitch one, while bolted anchors simplify the technical second pitch. The thin protection on the arete requires confidence and some skillful placement, especially as the rock is solid but sometimes spaced out enough to demand trust in your nuts and cams. The third pitch’s sparse gear and the downclimb to the north call for solid route-finding and good footwork.
Fish Creek Rock’s wide shoulders and sweeping panoramas offer a calm backdrop to this adventurous climb, inviting weekend climbers seeking a blend of quiet solitude and polished granite moves. The climb’s practical length and moderate rating make it approachable for intermediate climbers ready to step confidently into longer multi-pitch trad climbs in the Southern Sierra’s varied landscape.
Exercise caution on the arete’s small protection spots where cams can be marginal. The final descent involves downclimbing some tricky fifth-class terrain—careful route-finding and steady footwork are essential to prevent slips. Loose rock is minimal, but vigilance on ledges and during the walk-off is key.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the exposed arete.
Bring a full rack with emphasis on small cams for pitch two’s arete.
Wear sturdy approach shoes suitable for forested terrain and rocky walk-off.
Prepare for some 5th class downclimbing on descent; consider a short rope for security.
Pitch one demands a full rack of traditional gear, including small cams and nuts for protection along cracks and chimneys. Pitch two features fixed bolts—a critical clip on the arete—but still requires small cams in tricky spots to manage protection. The final pitch has sparse gear placements, so be prepared for more runout sections and use solid pro judgment. Anchors are bolted on the first two pitches, with a gear anchor or belay behind a large boulder on the summit.
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